As promised, here is a step by step tutorial for making the pleats on the Lalimaya Origami Coat

These fan pleats are located on the upper sleeves (4 pleats) and on the right front of the coat (3 pleats). I made the tutorial using the upper sleeve pieces, the fan pleats are done exactly the same way for the right front.

 

Me in my Origami coat

On the pics, the sleeve changes color from step to step (once red once gray), don’t worry about it, it’s just because my sleeves are different colors and I took the best photo for each step. The weather was overcast, no light, I hope that the pics will still be good enough.

You’ll see, even if it seems complicated when you see the finished coat, it really is not !

And now, the tutorial !

Trace

Draw the fold lines according to the pattern on the right side of the fabric, with chalk.

Also mark the small arrows in the seam allowance, which indicate how to fold.

Tuto manche plis origami

Fold lines and arrows on the right side of the fabric – Upper sleeve piece

 

Fold lines and arrows on the right side of the fabric – Right front piece


Prepare

On the right side of the sleeve, fold and pin pleats, wrong sides together, matching fold lines that go together (see arrows).

Right side of the sleeve – Match fold lines, according to the arrows.

Right side of the sleeve – the pleat has wrong sides together.

Right side of the sleeve - pin along the fold line – view from one side of the pleat

Right side of the sleeve – view from the other side of the pleat - The black pin marks the tip of the pleats

 

Choose a thread matching your fabric well as the seam is on the right side and could be seen at the tip of the folds. If your fabric is a print, select a thread color matching the background.

 

Stitch the pleats

Stitch along the fold line, being careful not to catch another fold, especially at the tip.

Stitch on the fold line – On the right side of the sleeve !

right side of the sleeve, one pleat stitched (on the right)

Cut threads.

Do the same for the other pleats.

Right side of the sleeve - all 4 pleats stitched

Wrong side of the upper sleeve – all 4 pleats stitched

Shape the pleats

Shape the pleats so that they are equally distributed on both sides of their stitching line.

The pleat should be evenly distributed on both sides of the stitching line.

Pleat  evenly distributed – View from the wrong side of the upper sleeve

Pin in place.

Pin the pleat – View from the right side of the upper sleeve

Pin the pleat – View from the wrong side of the upper sleeve

Press, steam, watch out for the pins

Do a press test on a scrap before ironing the sleeve itself, if necessary, use a press cloth between your fabric and the iron to protect the the fabric.

Right side  – Pleats pressed and steamed.

Wrong side  – Pleats pressed and steamed.

Finishes

On the wrong side of the sleeve cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.

On the wrong side, cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.

On the right side, topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance so that they stay in place/shape during future handling of the pieces.

topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance.

And voilà ! Pleats done !

Sleeves fan pleats done !

Origami manteau profil

Side, left sleeve

As mentioned above, proceed in exactly the same way for the 3 fan pleats on the right front !

Related posts: