As promised, here is a step by step tutorial for making the pleats on the Lalimaya Origami Coat
These fan pleats are located on the upper sleeves (4 pleats) and on the right front of the coat (3 pleats). I made the tutorial using the upper sleeve pieces, the fan pleats are done exactly the same way for the right front.
On the pics, the sleeve changes color from step to step (once red once gray), don’t worry about it, it’s just because my sleeves are different colors and I took the best photo for each step. The weather was overcast, no light, I hope that the pics will still be good enough.
You’ll see, even if it seems complicated when you see the finished coat, it really is not !
And now, the tutorial !
Draw the fold lines according to the pattern on the right side of the fabric, with chalk.
Also mark the small arrows in the seam allowance, which indicate how to fold.
On the right side of the sleeve, fold and pin pleats, wrong sides together, matching fold lines that go together (see arrows).
Choose a thread matching your fabric well as the seam is on the right side and could be seen at the tip of the folds. If your fabric is a print, select a thread color matching the background.
Stitch the pleats
Stitch along the fold line, being careful not to catch another fold, especially at the tip.
Do the same for the other pleats.
Shape the pleats
Shape the pleats so that they are equally distributed on both sides of their stitching line.
Pin in place.
Press, steam, watch out for the pins
Do a press test on a scrap before ironing the sleeve itself, if necessary, use a press cloth between your fabric and the iron to protect the the fabric.
On the wrong side of the sleeve cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.
On the right side, topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance so that they stay in place/shape during future handling of the pieces.
And voilà ! Pleats done !
As mentioned above, proceed in exactly the same way for the 3 fan pleats on the right front !