Grand Theogonist costume

Here are pics of my “grand Theogonist of Arianka” costume.  It’s a character I played during my last Warhammer LARP. It’s an authority figure with precepts like : order, discipline and unity.

Those of you who know the Warhammer universe know that the Grand Theogonist represents the cult of Sigmar, but we were in a parallel universe where Arianka is the main Goddess in the Empire.

As a base, I used my white medieval style dress to which I added large sleeves, a corset, a train and a headband / tiara…  All of this, brace yourself,… In a golden color !


robe médievale blanche

White dress : the base of the costume for the Grand Theogonist (the large sleeves are removable)

Sleeves

I used McCall’s 4491’s large lower sleeve pattern. I elasticized the upper edge to be able to change them quickly. To get clean edges, I did a rolled hem with my the serger.

The fabric is a stretch golden knit

Corset with train

No, I did not make the corset! No time! And  I don’t know how to make one to begin with, do learning as the same time would have taken me even more of a time I did not have!

But a golden corset is tough to find. That’s why I bought a white corset that I simply painted with a gold acrylic paint purchased in an art store (regular paint, not fabric paint). Because this corset will always be dry cleaned, the acrylic paint shouldn’t be an issue. I painted two layers.

The end result isn’t too bad.

I thought, for a moment, about adding embellishments to the corset but I finally opted for simplicity (as I do most of the time in my sewing projects), especially since the character is pretty uptight : frills aren’t her thing.

For the train : I made it directly on the dress form. I just hung the golden fabric at the upper edge of the corset back, where I hand-stitched it, and then cut the train until it looked like what I wanted. I used the same stretch fabric as the sleeves and didn’t hem it (the fabric doesn’t fray).

The headband / tiara

bandeau diademe arianka warhammer

Headband

I used a faux leather as the base (but it can’t be seen in the end result anymore) in which I cut the shape of the headband.

I then stitched lengths of golden ribbons over it.

Finally I glued the symbol of Arianka. The symbol was cut out of faux leather and painted gold (with fingers oO). At the center of the symbol a big strass is superglued.

To form the headband and for it to fit snugly around the head, I sewed the two ends to a piece of wide elastic (2.5-3cm), also painted gold. The elastic being hidden under the hair once the headband is in place.

Pictures

Add to that a two-handed sword (thanks Jean !) and I was the leaving image of authority…  What do you mean it’s all because of the sword ?


Costume doré

3/4 dos

warhammer larp costume

De profil

warhammer larp

3/4 devant

Face

LARP costume dress

Going somewhere and meaning it !

During a ritual

New Priestess of Shallya dress #2

McCall's pattern 4491

McCall’s pattern 4491

Pictures of the dress at the bottom of the post.

Pattern Description

McCall’s 4491
MISSES COSTUMES: Lined dresses have princess line, close fitting bust, scoop neckline, sleeve variations, laced band back closure, optional purchased trim and sweep hemline; dress D has contrasting lined sleeves.

I’ve made view C (short sleeves) but also made the sleeves from view D (which is the only difference between C and D)

Pattern Sizing:
Size. AA (6-8-10-12), EE (14-16-18-20)
I used size 16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes !

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes they were pretty easy. The dress itself isn’t really hard to construct. I’ve read others had trouble with the gussets but I though the instructions were pretty clear on this too, you just need to mark each symbols on the fabric pieces carefully.

Likes or dislikes about the pattern

Loved the sleeves on view D, the laced back and I have a thing for princess seams !

Fabric

SUGGESTED FABRICS: Dress, Sleeve Lining D – Brocade Jacquard Silk Velvet Velveteen; Dress Lining – Lining Fabric.

I used white linen for the dress and a net like fabric with small hearts for the sleeves (the heart is a major symbol for the character I’m impersonating)
This dress being for a LARP event this summer I didn’t use regular lining (I get too hot and sweaty^^) and used a sporty kind of lining instead.

Pattern alterations 

Train :
I removed the train effect completely.
To do that :
-I ignored the pattern piece for the back train.
-I had to redraw the hem on the back pieces to make a curve.
-I also had to redraw the hem on the side-backs, removing a triangle shaped piece at the hems.

Lining :
I didn’t line the sleeves at all, only the bodice. I attached the lining at the armholes by stitching it to the seam allowance (not all the way around though because of the gussets).

Sleeves :
I wanted to make view D for the pretty sleeves but, this dress being for a LARP event, I also wanted to be able to use it as a blank canvas and the sleeves make it too distinctive.
So instead of sewing the lower large sleeves to the upper sleeves I finished the dress as per view C and then cut the lower sleeves and added an elastic casing on the upper edge. This way I can remove them if needed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes to both !

Conclusion

I needed a white medieval style dress for a LARP event and this pattern fits the bill perfectly. It’s has great shape and could be adapted to any type of character by changing fabrics, adding trims, etc…
The dress is pretty easy to construct, no major difficulties and I just loveee the dramatic effect of the sleeves !
Just because LARP events give you the opportunity to wear such dresses, you’ve got to love them !

Oh and you don’t need to unlace the back when putting on or taking off the dress. I can squeeze in it while it’s laced, without sweating too much or having to break my ribs.

white medieval dress

McCall’s 4491 back

McCall's 4491

McCall’s 4491 front

 

Trench Coat – McCall’s 5525

I wanted a spring jacket and just felt in love with the view B of the McCall’s 5525 trench coat pattern !

I find that the bell sleeves and Peter Pan collar give it a perfect look for spring… and I love princess seams. The added bonus is that the other views which are more “classic trench coat” style make this pattern a keeper !

Pattern Description:


McCall's 5525

McCall’s 5525

Mccall's 5525

Technical drawings

Semi-fitted, lined, double-breasted jacket and coat have collar, lengths and sleeve variations, shoulder pads, princess seams and side front pockets.
I made view B with bell sl
eeves and Peter Pan collar.

Pattern Sizing:
9-24
I used size 14

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes it did !

Were the instructions easy to follow?


Pretty much, though as a beginner I would have liked some more construction technique tips.

Hopefully with Pattern Review every technique tip or help is only a click of the mouse away.

I looove sewing princess seams and I gathered several tips here and there that make the process painless. That’s how I’ve done it:
– Staystitch the curves on both pieces within the seam allowance (3/8″ ~ 1cm)
– Clip the convex piece every half inch or so, up to the staystitch line.
In this pattern the convex pieces are the front and back pieces.
The concave pieces are the side-front and side-back pieces.
– Now you can easily adjust the convex (front or back) piece shape to the concave (side-front or side-back) shape. Pin, matching the staystitch lines as a guide.
– Sew with the concave (side-front or side-back) on the feed dogs.
– Finally don’t iron it flat ! I don’t have a tailor’s ham so I used the round edge of my ironing board and towels.

For the ruffles on sleeves I used the easy gathers tip with dental floss. It worked great, so much better than using the instructions on the pattern (which I tried first).
My gathered sleeves don’t look as good as I’d like, It’s all my fault of course, I didn’t take enough care while sewing the ruffled lower sleeves to the top sleeves… But I can be lazy sometime and I didn’t want to redo them.

Topstitching ! Now that was very scary for me, having never done it before.
I picked a thread color that blended really well with the fabric. I figured that hopefully if I didn’t do it well enough it wouldn’t show too much.
The thread was not intended for topstitching so it’s probably not really adequate and too light weight, but I didn’t find a similar color in more heavy weight threads.
I sewed as slow as possible, considering my temperamental pedal (I swear this thing has a mind of its own) and used the edge of the foot as a guide. And much to my surprise it went pretty easily.
Topstitching the collar was especially scary but slow and steady won the race.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I though view B was a perfect style for a spring jacket with the ruffled sleeves and Peter Pan collar. I love princess seams coats. And the other variations make this a great buy.


Fabric


Cotton gabardine, kind of lilac.
I ordered it online, and when it arrived it was pinker that what I expected. I wanted something a little more blueish.
For the lining I intend to use a cotton print from Alexander Henry (regency skull). But after laying the pattern pieces on the fabric, just before cutting, I realized that with the princess s
eams I wouldn’t be able to have at least one repeat on a pattern piece. So I decided to save my pretty fabric for another project and I used some “regular” lavender lining I had in my small stash.

fabric buttons trench coat


Pattern alterations


-After reading the reviews here I cut the pockets bigger.. but not enough, they are still on the small side ! If I was to
redo it I would cut it a good inch bigger.
-I used fusible interfacing instead of sew in.
-I interfaced both collar pieces. It wasn’t really a choice, I fused the wrong collar piece first !
-I tried with only one row of buttons (picture bellow) but in the end I added the second row, it looked better to me this way.
-I’ve not done it yet but I plan to hand stitched the sleeves bands to the loops to keep them in place.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would not sew this view again, only because the design is very distinctive and one is enough in my wardrobe. I might try the other views someday. I would definitely recommend this pattern to others.

Conclusion


I have been sewing for a few months (8ish) this is my 2nd coat and I have to say that I enjoy sewing jacket/coats the most. I find that this is really rewarding and not that difficult when taken one step at a time. Of course my end result is not perfect it has it definite flaws but it’s unique and I like it, that’s plenty for me !

Trench coat peter pan Collar

Trench coat Peter Pan Collar

Trench coat M5525 open

Trench coat M5525 open

Sorry for the wrinkles, I’ve finished the coat a couple of weeks ago and I’ve been wearing it since

Trench coat Mcall's 5525

Trench coat Mcall’s 5525

Mccall's trench coat

With only one row of buttons… I finally added the second one

 

Here are some pictures of the construction of this trench coat

Construction trench coat McCall's

Construction trench coat McCall’s – Front

construction trench coat

Construction trench coat – Back

Construction trench-coat McCalls 5525 sleeves

Construction trench-coat McCalls 5525 – sleeves pinned