I took advantage of the lack of Mistral (a very strong wind in the south of France) and heavy rain and was finally able to take pictures of this very “Jacky O” (in my eyes), classic rétro-chic coat.

Pattern

The pattern I used for this coat is Newlook 6736. The coat as 3/4 sleeves, princess seams and a very large collar and neckline (so very open at the neck, a scarf is essential for cool evenings). The coat is designed without pockets or lining.

As you can see, my coat and the one the pattern envelop are almost identical … This is due to the fact that I used the same color! It’s not for lack of inspiration, it’s just because I like this color a lot.

Newlook 6736 manteau demi saison

Newlook 6736 – front

Newlook patron 6736

Newlook 6736 pattern

Fabric

Slightly stretchy gabardine (95% polyester 5% Lycra) “lie de vin” which is not exactly the same as burgundy in French but close enough.

Strangely the fabric is stretchable lengthwise (warp) and not widthwise (weft)… This surprised me. It does not matter for this coat, but I also wanted to use the fabric to sew a stretch pair of pants…  So I’ll have to remember to cut my pieces in the weft direction.

Manteau parmenture finie par un biais

Front and neckline facings are finished with bias binding

Sewing

Nothing particularly difficult, the steps are the usual ones for a coat. And explanations are clear and well illustrated.

However, this coat being unlined, the longest thing was to properly finish all seams and edges, since they remain visible. And a coat with princess seams has a lot of seams and raw edges to finish!

Finishes

As mentioned above, it was necessary to finish this unlined coat properly.

For most of the seams I just folded the seam allowance and stitched in place.

For armhole seams, which are less visible and for which I didn’t want to add bulk, I just serged them.

For the edge of the facing  I wanted to add a touch of color and a bit of interest to the inside of the coat. So I used a flowery bias binding along the raw edge of the facing.

The buttons are cover buttons for which I used the main fabric.

facing finished with bias binding on the left, regular seam on the right.

Changes

I just shortened the “bodice”. This is a regular alteration for me. I’m apparently “shorter waisted” than average … Anyway I compensate with longer legs than average too, na!

I should have reduced the width of the back: it is too large. This is not even something that I thought to check on the pattern because I never do this adjustment.

So this is not a fitted coat (or very slightly at the bust). It is very flared, which gives a nice movement during the walk but… combined with the back being too large, this might give me a tent like look … So note to self: if I ever sew this coat again, I must removed several inches at the center back.

 

manteau newlook 6736 profil

This isn’t a spot on the sleeve, just water from the steaming iron…

Wind

More wind