1 pattern + 1 fabric = 2 dresses

Last weekend I cut and started sewing my coat Origami, I did so well that I found myself stuck on Sunday morning due to the lining missing (ordered it a few weeks ago)… And I could not do anything more without it.

Frustrated at not being able to continue sewing this coat, I decided to sew Petite Chérie a dress, the dress eventually became two dresses.

 

Pattern

I wanted to satisfy my urge to sew so I used a dress pattern from Ottobre that I had already traced, the same as for the straight A’s dress. And that way I also celebrated the good news of the weekend: Ottobre magazine will soon be available in French.

Here is the pattern, it has three variations :  “Tropical Blend” from Magazine Ottobre 03/2011.

Patron robe trapèze fille Ottobre

Patron #18 “tropical blend” – Ottobre 03/2011

Fabric

This is a fabric that Petite Chérie’s aunty Isa gave me two years ago. It’s red with Chinese embroidery. DD chose it in my stock. This is not an ideal fabric for a dress because it is rather stiff but Petite Chérie wanted it, so I used it. It’s a pain to press/steam though… And it shows!

I was going to cut it when my daughter pointed out that the wrong side was “beautiful, too.” It was different from the front : strips of colors with a moire effect and the same embroidery as on the right side except it was in white.

As a result I made two dresses!

  1.      With stripes (wrong side) with a pleated skirt.
  2.      In red (right side of fabric) a simple A-Line version. I attached the pattern piece of the skirt to the pattern piece of the top of the dress to use it as one piece. Well except for the back : I did not have enough fabric to cut everything in one piece so I added the skirt panel separately.

I admit I did it “quick and easy” : a simple green cotton for the facings, no piping at armholes and necklines, and I picked basic buttons in my stash.

 

Conclusion

Nothing like a pattern already tested, approved AND traced to satisfy an urge of sewing.

You’ll see this pattern again, I have at least 2-3 fabric combinations that I set aside for this pattern. But I think I’ll trace a larger size next time (DD keeps growing ^^).

Monday morning I was happy to find in my mailbox the lining fabric for the coat which means that I will finish it on Sunday! Yay!

Photos

So… Since last Saturday it’s rain, rain, rain… The pictures took inside produced weird (and bad) results (see below) so I took advantage of a few minutes of calm weather to take pictures… In the fog!

Petite Chérie is a fan of the red dress and wants to wear it for Christmas … But of course any opportunity is to be seized to wear it  (“Mom, I can put it on to go to Grandma’s?”… She goes to grandma’s every day…).

 

Pleated version (wrong side of fabric)

red version (right side)

2 dresses in the mist ^^

Chameleon Dress. Pictures indoors, with flash, against a crushed-raspberry-satin wall, don’t work !

Petite Chérie wearing the red dress

It’s time to cut the summer plait, chérie !

Looks like a Chinese tunic here, no ?

Portée

Origami coat : help needed !

I’m going to sew the Origami coat by Lalimaya and I need your opinion!

I have several versions in my head and I can not choose one. So I put up a small poll (see below to vote) to ask you which version(s) you prefer, and help me decide!

But first a quick word so you know what’s it’s all about !

The pattern

Manteau Origami de Lalimaya = Origami coat by Lalimaya

There are women and children patterns for this coat. I intended to also make one for Petite Chérie (DD) this winter but given the stock of coats she already has, it wouldn’t be wise… So she’ll have one next year … or the one after that.

[one_half]

Woman origami coat – Lalimaya

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Origami coat

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Fabrics

Here are the fabrics that I picked :
  • For the outer fabric : a red wool and a gray wool.
  • For the lining: printed cotton by Melissa Crowley: “The woman spring bouquet” (odd name in French !). It is ordered but not yet received, I can not wait!

The sleeve lining will be in white satin for a good “slip” when you put on the coat. I may add a flannel interlining to make the coat warmer… I’ll see… Anyway it won’t have any impact on the look of the coat.

Fabrics chosen for the Origami coat – Lalimaya

The versions

Lalimaya designed her pattern in such a way that a multitude of fabric combinations are possible. That’s great to make a really personal coat.

My style is fairly classic, that’s why I used only plain fabric on the outside. After playing with my drawing software, here are the possible versions I picked… And between which I can’t make a choice !


Clic to enlarge

Difficult choice !

Vote !

The vote happens on my French blog, so all numbers will be adding up in one place. I created a special page there for English readers, right here : Poll for Origami Coat.

Both “French” and “English” votes are recorded there.

Thank you !

I’m hoping to do a quick muslin of the lining (to check if my size choice is the right one) and trace the pattern in the upcoming week. Alas, I’m not at home this weekend (Paris here I come !) so I won’t be able to advance quickly !

[box type=”info”] Poll is closed and the “winner” is version #2 !

Thanks a lot to everyone who voted, you did help me pick a design… Pretty sure I’d still be at it without you ! Thank you ![/box]

Airelle “dragibus” blouse – Deer&Doe

Here is my Airelle “Dragibus” blouse from the French pattern company Deer & Doe ! Splashes of color in anticipation of spring! As usual, all pictures are at the end of the article.

 

The pattern

Deer & Doe’s Airelle is a blouse with front and back waist darts, shoulder yoke in which the front is gathered, ¾ sleeves with cuffs and a collar.

Blouse Airelle – Deer & Doe

The strength of this blouse pattern is that it can easily be adapted to a casual, classic or dressy style.

The pattern is printed on thick paper: I like that ! I hate pattern papers that tear too easily.
The instruction booklet is well presented and illustrations are clear.

I think it’s only offered in French at the time. If you need help with the translation you can use my French-English sewing lexicon or just leave a comment !

Drawings of possible variations from the blouse are shown at the end of the booklet. This is a very good idea. However, for beginners, it would be nice to go a bit further and indicate the main changes from the reference pattern. But if you have already sewn a couple of garments, you’ll easily spot what you have to do to sew the other views.

 

Sizes

The pattern is available in French sizes 34 to 46 (that’s 4-16 US sizing).
As Colette patterns, Deer & Doe patterns are designed for C cups… and that suits me fine!

Incidentally, one thing I’d love to find on French patterns envelopes is the measurements of the finished garment per size. This is what allows me to pick my size correctly with U.S. patterns… I know that I can measure everything flat …. But well… Lazy inside !

I used the size 42.
For reference my French bra size is 95C (= 36C US) with a bust measurment that “fluctuates” from 98 to 100cm (I’m at the limit between C and D cups). Based on this measurment I should have used a size 44.
But on the blog article dedicated to the Airelle Blouse #Les patrons# La blouse Airelle Eléonore (Deer & Doe’s designer) specifies that the blouse is “very slightly fitted but not too close to the body”.
So I decided to go ahead with the size 42, without doing a muslin, I cut my fabric… And … Suspense … Everything is almost perfect !

Good surprises with this size : I didn’t have to do a sway back adjustment or shorten the bodice (which I do veeeeeery often). It’s perfect at the bust.
Note to self relative to the size : Beyond size 42 shoulders will be too wide (about 0.5 cm already in excess at the shoulder seam). So for other more fitted patterns from D&D start from a size 40-42 and do a FBA. + Neckline problem to fix (see below).

 

Fabrics

The main fabric is a fine printed poplin called “dragibus”. The coordinating fabric, used for bias binding at the neckline and flat piping, is a half cotton- half linen in purplish gray.
Both were purchased from Etoffes des héros.

popeline dragibus

popelin dragibus

metis gris violacé

half cotton- half linen in purplish gray

 

Design changes

Only two small things:

Flat piping
In the ad pictures of the pattern, what immediately attracted my eye is the piping at the shoulder yoke seams. I loved this detail! So although the instructions were note given in the booklet, I decided to add flat piping at the front and back yoke seams.
I also made a tutorial on sewing flat piping for those who want to add this detail (for this pattern or any other one), with specific instructions for the Airelle blouse.

[box type=”download”] Flat piping tutorial for the Airelle blouse [/box]

No collar
I didn’t sew the collar. I finished the neckline with bias binding. Having previously removed the seam allowance at the neckline (front + shoulder yoke pieces). I sewed the bias binding by hand… Overall the result is ok, but I’ve messed up in a few places where the thread shows. And the thread doesn’t really match the fabric…

I have a problem with the neckline : it doesn’t lay flat at the sides (see pictures below). Is it because the fabric for my bias binding is heavier than my main fabric? Is the size wrong? Is this due to a shoulder problem?  I shall investigate !

Conclusion

This is an easy blouse pattern… Well, I must say that, in my opinion, the collar is the most difficult part and I didn’t sew that !

I especially like the shoulder yoke it will easily allow to change the look of this blouse, with color blocking or changing the direction of a plaid, for example.

Otherwise, Petite Chérie (8 years old DD) fell in love with the dragibus fabric and asked for a dragibus blouse for herself… I’ll go rummage through my Ottobre patterns for her …. But not before sewing my Origami coat from Lalimaya !

 

Pictures

There are 14 of them ! First the details pics and then the pics of me wearing the blouse. Petite Chérie (8 years old) took the pictures of me wearing my dragibus blouse, she’s making progress, isn’t she ?

Detail of flat piping and front neckline – You can see where I messed up the hand sewing at the neckline ^  ^

airelle deer and doe

Detail of flat piping and front neckline… Again

Détail col Airelle - Deer&Doe

Neckline detail, hand-sewn bias – Deer & Doe – At the center you can see the wrong side of the back-shoulder yoke seam.

Airelle Deer&Doe - detail manche

Airelle Deer&Doe – Sleeve detail

Back piping detail (bottom) and bias binding at the neckline (top) – It’s on the right side, but the flash washed out the colors.

 

Front

Back !

 

Airelle Deer & Doe

Airelle blouse – Front

Blouse airelle deer and doe

Front.

I look so very friendly in this picture oO – You can see my neckline problem there.

Back with my * beep * in the foreground… It is so elegant … This is mainly to get an overview of piping at the upper back … Not really showing there actually.

Profile… Not a weird posture !

Another very natural pose !

Long red fur vest

This red long fur vest was sewn from a free Burda pattern.

Ok, so the alibi was that the vest was suppose to be part of a costume : the Haradrim Witch  … But, once the vest finished, I decided that it wasn’t appropriate. Anyway, as I just wanted a red fur vest and was looking for a “cover up” reason, the fact that it didn’t suit the costume was no biggie.

Now that it’s finished, I’ll definitely wear it in my every day life. Probably with a dress and boots or a slim and boots.

Pattern

This is a free pattern from Burda.

Free burda pattern – Long vest

It’s downloadable HERE after registering for free. I tried to find it on the BurdaStyle web site, but it doesn’t appear to be offered there. So you’ll have to go through the EU website. Instructions are in French and German, with illustrations.

The pattern is available in French sizes 34 to 44. I sewed size 42 (chosen according to my bust measurement) … It was too large … See “Adjustments”.

The long vest closes with 3 Fur Hooks & Eyes. The short version (supplied in the same pattern) uses toggle closures.

Agrafes fourreur

Fur Hooks & Eyes used for this vest

The pattern consists of a half back, a half front with collar attached and a piece of half collar.

To cut this pattern in fur (which is to say through a single layer) I advise you to print each piece twice :

Cut the front left and front right as a mirror image.

Assemble the two half backs and cut through the single layer of fur as one complete back piece.

Assemble the two half-collars and do the same as for the back.

For more details on how to sew fur, see this article: sewing fake fur.

 

Fabrics

Fur: it is the same fur used for Petite Chérie’s shepherd vest.

A faux fur with long hair is suggested by Burda to make this vest, but I fell for this shorter hair “rippled” red fur. It is 100% synthetic, super soft and was purchased from the l’Etoffe des héros.

 

Fausse-fourrure rouge à relief vaguelettes

Lining: It is an Indian printed cotton with a red and black paisley pattern, purchased in a “Nalli Silk Saree ” shop, in Delhi.

Adjustments

I shortened the bust, as in 90% of the time when I sew for myself. I had to shorten it by a good 4 cm (= 1.5 inches).

Of course, it shortened the total length of the vest by 4 cm. I decided not to add the 4 cm at the hem because I am really lazy the vest length was just fine that way.

– After sewing everything (only the hem remained to be done) it was clear that the vest was too big! So I took the side seams in, using 3 cm seam allowances instead of 1.5 cm … That way I removed 6 cm (over 2 inches) of ease. It is much better and I can still wear a sweater underneath.

Pictures

patron burda gratuit

Burda vest – front, closed

patron gratuit burda

Burda vest –  Front, open

patron gilet gratuit burda

Burda vest – 3/4 open

patron couture gilet gratuit

Burda vest – side, closed

 

Haradrim LARP costume

This is the costume I wore last weekend for a small “Middle earth” LARP (Tolkein’s “Lord of the rings”).

I played an Haradrim witch (Haradrims = Moors, substantially). I don’t remember reading descriptions of Haradrim women In Tolkien’s books… Only men.  So I used the “color chart” for Haradrims (red, black, gold) and did want I felt like and what seemed consistent for the character.

In truth I’ve done little sewing for this one.

I’ve had the shirt for a long time and I bought the corset (because it is beauuuuuuutiful).

So I just made two elasticated waist skirts.

  • The underskirt is made of a red embroidered Indian fabric purchased from Nalli Silk Saree in Delhi. It has a slit on one side… Being able to run is essential when LARPing !
  • The overskirt is in black crepe. Once sewn, I gleefully torn it into strips by hand. I thought the torn effect was perfect for this character and it allowed a glimpse of the beautiful fabric of the underskirt when I moved ^ ^.

Oh I also whipped up a veil. I used what was left of the golden embroidered border of the Indian fabric to make a headband. I tied it around my head and then I pinned a rectangle of fabric until it looked ok and sewed it. I just added two small darts under the eyes to give more of a rectangular shape to the opening and to have a better field of vision.

Pictures

Find the differences game : There is a difference between the 1st and 2nd pictures… Which one ? It’s not subtle !

 

costume haradrim gn

Haradrim costume

gn costume haradrim

Haradrim costume… something has been added !

The difference : yes it’s the ritual dagger at the hip (thank you Ben ^ ^) … Well let me reassure non-LARPers: this is not a real one, it’s foam / latex.

Just before the beginning of the “game” !

 

Easy sewing : mittens

Here is a tutorial to sew mittens. This is a super easy sewing project and so simple that it can be fully done in less than 30 minutes.

The measurements given should suit most women’s hands. You’ll find in the tutorial how to adjust for narrower or wider hands .

Here’s what it looks like in fur (do not mind the nail polish, it was a test for a costume ^ ^):

 

easy fur mittens

fur mittens

mittens tutorial

Fur mittens

We need

Fabric: Boiled wool, fleece, faux fur (if the canvas is stretchable) … In short you need a stretch fabric that doesn’t fray.

You’ll need a 24 cm by 40 cm piece of fabric.

For this tutorial I chose fur.

 

 

We cut

Cut the 24 cm x 40 cm piece of fabric to get 4 rectangles of 12 cm x 20 cm.

The cut should be clean, especially since the short edges will be visible as is.

 

cut 4 rectangles of 12 cm x 20 cm

 

We sew

Seam allowances of 1.5 cm are included

1 – Place 2 rectangles right sides together and pin along one of the long edges.

2 rectangles endroit contre endroitépingler sur un côté

 

2 – Draw 2 markings :

  • one 2.5 cm from the top
  • the other 7.5 cm from the top

The space between these two markings will not be closed : that’s where the thumb will go through.

 

tuto mitaines

2 markings

3Sew with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm breaking stitching between the markings.
Reinforce stitching at markings.
Open the seam

 

tuto mitaines

Coudre selon les pointillés. NE PAS coudre entre les repères.

4 – Still right sides together, pin the remaining long sides together.

Stitch with a margin of 1.5 cm.

Open the seam.

 

Stitch the remaining side.

5Turn the mitten right side out and try it on. In 90% of cases it should fit without adjustments.

But just in case:

– It’s really too loose: redo the last seam with a larger allowance (eg 2 cm)

– It’s really too tight: redo the last seam with a smaller margin (eg 1 cm).

 

6 – Turn the mitten inside out and cut the four corners of the seam allowances without cutting the seam!

 

Cut the corners

Turn the mitten right side out : it’s done !

7 – Repeat the steps with the other two rectangles.

And voilà : a pair of mittens!

 

[box type=”info”] Customise : You can decorate your mittens with buttons, embroidery, appliqués, ribbons or, why not, lace along the openings (top and / or bottom), … Depending on what you want to add (embroidery, appliqués for example), I suggest you do it before Step 4: Before closing the second side because it can be easier to work with the mitten completely flat.[/box]

See, sewing mittens is really quick and easy !

tutoriel mitaines fourrure

voilà, done !

Grand Theogonist costume

Here are pics of my “grand Theogonist of Arianka” costume.  It’s a character I played during my last Warhammer LARP. It’s an authority figure with precepts like : order, discipline and unity.

Those of you who know the Warhammer universe know that the Grand Theogonist represents the cult of Sigmar, but we were in a parallel universe where Arianka is the main Goddess in the Empire.

As a base, I used my white medieval style dress to which I added large sleeves, a corset, a train and a headband / tiara…  All of this, brace yourself,… In a golden color !


robe médievale blanche

White dress : the base of the costume for the Grand Theogonist (the large sleeves are removable)

Sleeves

I used McCall’s 4491’s large lower sleeve pattern. I elasticized the upper edge to be able to change them quickly. To get clean edges, I did a rolled hem with my the serger.

The fabric is a stretch golden knit

Corset with train

No, I did not make the corset! No time! And  I don’t know how to make one to begin with, do learning as the same time would have taken me even more of a time I did not have!

But a golden corset is tough to find. That’s why I bought a white corset that I simply painted with a gold acrylic paint purchased in an art store (regular paint, not fabric paint). Because this corset will always be dry cleaned, the acrylic paint shouldn’t be an issue. I painted two layers.

The end result isn’t too bad.

I thought, for a moment, about adding embellishments to the corset but I finally opted for simplicity (as I do most of the time in my sewing projects), especially since the character is pretty uptight : frills aren’t her thing.

For the train : I made it directly on the dress form. I just hung the golden fabric at the upper edge of the corset back, where I hand-stitched it, and then cut the train until it looked like what I wanted. I used the same stretch fabric as the sleeves and didn’t hem it (the fabric doesn’t fray).

The headband / tiara

bandeau diademe arianka warhammer

Headband

I used a faux leather as the base (but it can’t be seen in the end result anymore) in which I cut the shape of the headband.

I then stitched lengths of golden ribbons over it.

Finally I glued the symbol of Arianka. The symbol was cut out of faux leather and painted gold (with fingers oO). At the center of the symbol a big strass is superglued.

To form the headband and for it to fit snugly around the head, I sewed the two ends to a piece of wide elastic (2.5-3cm), also painted gold. The elastic being hidden under the hair once the headband is in place.

Pictures

Add to that a two-handed sword (thanks Jean !) and I was the leaving image of authority…  What do you mean it’s all because of the sword ?


Costume doré

3/4 dos

warhammer larp costume

De profil

warhammer larp

3/4 devant

Face

LARP costume dress

Going somewhere and meaning it !

During a ritual

Child Shepherd vest

The shepherd vest from a free pattern !

It was about time I sewed this Shepherd Vest ! I feel like every mom who sews has made it at least once for her little ones. Well in France anyway, where it’s a pretty popular sewing project for children… Petite Chérie is growing fast, so it had to be now or never …

But the real defining moment was when Petite Chérie saw this beautiful red fur. I told her that I was going to make myself a vest for a LARP costume. She then rubbed the red fur against her cheek (This fur is sooooo soft!) And looked at me with pleading eyes “I would like one too.” Haggard eyes of the mother wondering if she has enough fabric to make two vests, quick maths, sigh of relief, joyful scream of Petite Chérie.

The pattern

This shepherd vest was sewn from a C’est dimanche free pattern. “C’est dimanche” is a small French pattern company.

If you want to use the pattern and need help with the French instructions you can use the French-English sewing dictionary and I’ll be happy to help too, just ask !

The pattern is for a Shepherd vest in faux fur or wool, fully lined (the vest can be completely reversible by the way), and it closes at the front with a little tie.

To use the pattern you need to enlarge it (200%), check the size of the square drawn on the pattern. Seam allowance is included (0,75cm = 0,29 inches).

The sizes available are : 3/4 years, 5/6 years et 8 years.

This is a fast sewing project, I finished it entirely in less than an hour (cut not included).

couture, Couper en simple épaisseur : positionner les pièces identiques en miroir

front pattern pieces (it’s the same piece, I traced it twice to cut on a single layer of fur)

 

Fabrics

A 100% synthetic high quality, red fur. It’s extremely soft and was purchased from l’Etoffe des héros. The fur as a raised “ripple” pattern.

If you need guidance on how to sew fake fur, you can see this article, brilliantly called: Sewing faux-fur !

 

Fausse-fourrure rouge à relief vaguelettes

For the lining: a soft cotton hand printed and bought in India.

Petit Chérie chose the fabric for the lining from a pre-selection I made… Because I’m willing to give her space for creativity but still : these are MY fabrics…  I can be bad like that ^ ^

For the tie she picked a silver ribbon.

Tissu indien coton

Lining : Indian “hand block printed” cotton

Alteration

Petite Chérie is eight years old and is in between sizes 8 and 10 years in ready to wear. I quickly pinned the half paper patterns together and put it on her to check the size … A bit too tight. So I added 1 cm on all borders, thinking that it would be enough to give it a little more ease …

Now that the vest is finished, the cruel truth has revealed itself : it is enough ease for like 3 months! I feel this jacket will be offered to a friend’s daughter before spring because it won’t fit Petite Chérie anymore. Ah, the ephemerality of children’s clothing, it’s sad when they were sewn with love.

Pics

Petite Chérie was not in the mood to pose for photos the day I took them… But I still managed to get some with the phone the next day.

She loves the jacket so much that she even wore it on a sunny 26 °c (79°F) day … Note the sweatshirt around the waist but the fur vest over the tank top … No comment!

 

Gilet de berger rouge

Improvised pics oO

patron gratuit gilet enfant

Front

Emmanchures

Fourrure rouge

ribbon

Patron gratuit giler berger

lining

 

My own vest in the same red fur is almost done, I just need to put in the hooks and eyes and hem it, but it will be for next week because I’m LARPing this weekend.

White Wizard Costume – LARP

White Wizard from the Light Order Warhammer

Here is my White Wizard costume from the Light Order for a LARP event in the Warhammer universe.

A white wizard is dressed in white ! It doesn’t change much from my Priestess Shallya dress … Especially since it’s the same character who has just changed careers.

This has greatly facilitated this costume since I reused the same white dress (McCall’s 4491 pattern).

I only had to make a surcoat, sleeves and as my friend Ben has kindly lent me a white cape, to adapt the cape a bit.


Surcoat and sleeves

A White Wizard from the Light Order has to be luminous. Especially since it has a spell to enchant its robe and make it luminous to protect himself. So I decided to make a surcoat and removable sleeves that reflect light to mimic the effect of this spell.

Fabric

Tulle with small particles that reflect light, purchased at Mondial Tissu.

This is not sequins, it’s more like flakes/small white stones. I am very disappointed that the very nice effect that it gives does not translate well in pictures… I have not been able to properly capture it… But trust me on this, in person it is pretty.

I was a little afraid to stitch through it but in fact the flakes are soft enough and I had no worries.

Tulle avec "pierres" brillantes

Tulle with shiny flakes – sleeve and deep armholes

Pattern

For the surcoat : I used the dress pattern : taped the front and side front and I cut to create the deep armholes.

For sleeves: same, I used the pattern of very large sleeves from the McCall’s pattern but I cut / folded to reduce the width and length. I wanted something more practical than the original sleeves that almost touch the ground.

Cape

Ben loaned me a white wool hooded cape, saying “you can do what you want with it” … . This cape is a 3/4 circle, it was destined to be dyed, that’s why the thread is black.

To adapt this cape to my costume I:

Ripped

I ripped all the visible black stitching lines : around the hood, center front and bottom hem …

A cape 3/4 of a circle has a nice size and allows to be nicely covered, it is more comfortable and easier to wear than a half circle cape… But then the hem is sooooo long, it took me 45 minutes of playing with the seam-ripper to get rid of it.

Added a lining

I added a white satin lining. Which allowed me to :

– Hide all the black stitching lines inside the hood and cape.

– Make the cape “richer” with a better and heavier hand.

– To be warmer of course! And when you have a LARP event in the Alps in October this is super important ^ ^

For the lining pattern I simply used the cape, put it on the satin lining and cut (4 pieces: 2 for the hood and two to the body). Paying attention to the seam allowances, of course.

Added closure

For this I simply sewed by hand a white frog closure 15.5 cm (closed) at the neckline.

 

Brandebourg blanc

white frog closure

Accessories

Because accessories are important for a LARP costume, I made :

Ugly Balls of light to throw… It was my first time and I did not apply myself, it shows! They are weighted foam balls covered by fabric that materialize a ball of light that can be sent on an enemy.

A grimoire, not great either. It’s just a book that I painted, decorated with metal lock ornaments, small shiny stones and a belt loop to close it.

A luminous sugar thingy … In this LAPR, sorcerers can make any object luminous and make it “their flashlight”. And at night this is really useful! So I used the powdered sugar holder because my flashlight fits in it and I stuffed some of the tulle inside to hide the object. You could tell me that I did not work too hard on this one… It’s true.

A white wig

And all the usual stuff you have to carry around for a LARP event.

A staff would have been nice for this character but I decided not to bother because I know I will find it annoying to carry it around after 2 hours … I already have to carry a big heavy bag.

Accessoires GN mage sorcier

Ugly Ball of light, grimoire and luminous sugar thingy

I’ve finished a second costume, but I can’t talk about it yet… Secret.

Pictures

So I haven’t ironed the white linen dress before the photos … That’s wrong! And the first 2 photos are particularly ugly, the fabric effect of surcoat doesn’t show at all.

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robe blanche mage GN

Dress in the shade – not a good pic :S

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[one_half_last]

Dress in the sun, can’t see much of the shiny flakes either :S

[/one_half_last]

neckline – Ah shiny !

[one_half]

Cape before unlined

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[one_half_last]

cape GN

Cape after

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[one_half]

Cape before with black thread visible

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Cape brandebourg

Cape after with frog clossure and no more visible black thread

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Cape blanche doublée

lining of the cape

Tulle avec "pierres" brillantes

Tulle with shiny “flakes” – sleeve and deep armhole

Sleeveless Jasmine – Colette

The pattern

Jasmine blouse by Colette Patterns.

This blouse in cut on the bias and has no closures. The top is shaped with bust darts and seams at the center front and center back.

I made version 2, the one with a shorter contrast collar, in a size 10, as usual for me with Colette patterns.

Blouse Jasmine

 

Fabrics

  • For the collar : it’s the same red microfiber as in my red Sencha.
  • For main fabric : I’ts a lightweight and soft Indian cotton, bought in Delhi, in a Kilol shop. The stripes on the fabric were hand block printed. There are some imperfections but nothing too dramatic. (I have some pics of hand block printing on my French blog : Tissus Indiens.)
tissus indiens

It's the 2 in the middle

Oh course the purpose of using stripes for this blouse, cut on the bias with center seams, is to create a chevron effect.

“Hand block printed” is nice but don’t expect the stripes to be really straight. This, plus the fact that some stripes are in groups of 4 and other of 5, made cutting the pattern to get the stripes to match at centers, a challenge.  

To achieve it, I laid down the pieces on the fabric differently from what is suggested in the instructions. Here are pictures of how I did it, for those interested (clic to enlarge) :

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Aligner des rayures couture
Fold the fabric width-wise matching stripes.

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Jasmine colette rayures

Cut out the pieces through both layers. Respect the straight grain.

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Adjustments

Almost nothing ! The bias cut is great for that ! Especially at the back where the center seam allows for the top to skim nicely over the curves of the back.

  • Bust darts moved up by 1cm and that’s all for the adjustment.

Design wise, it’s pretty obvious, I think :

  • No sleeves ! I wanted to finish the armholes with bias binding so I cut out the seam allowance there. I thought I might have to raise the armhole but it looked ok : no bra showing !

 

My misadventures

The very small tube that needed turning out to create the loop to keep the collar in place. It was just impossible for me to do it following the pattern instructions. I either didn’t understand something or I’m just not good at it. So I did it by hand… I had forgotten how it’s easiest sometimes to simply sew by hand !

The bias on the armholes : I checked twice that their stripes were in the same directions for both armholes… And I messed up ! …And I didn’t do anything about it.

Jasmine loop

The small loop

Finishes

I didn’t finish the seams inside the blouse. No, I did not forget, It’s just that fabric cut on the bias doesn’t unravel.

I didn’t use facings to finish the neckline, I used bias instead following the instructions of this great tutorial : Jasmine bias bound neckline. And I found that it’s a cleaner finish than a regular facing, and easier to wear too.

I wanted to finish the armholes with a red bias binding, the one I used to replace the facings, but this red was too different from the one on the collar and the one on the stripes. It’s ok inside the neckline because it doesn’t show too much but it bothered me at the armholes.  So I made my own bias binding using the main fabric.

Conclusion

I’m really happy with the matching of the stripes at the centers ! It was a bit frighting at the beginning but, as it’s often the case with sewing, it’s not that difficult when you take your time.

The pattern is fast and easy to sew. The only thing that you really need to be careful about, to get a good result,  is the collar and matching the notches.

I find that the no sleeves version of the Jasmine is great for a fast and stylish tank top.

I will make regular versions, with sleeves, for this autumn and next spring because these are really cute !

Photos

These colours are hard “to get” in pictures (for me anyway), the truest shades are the ones on the loop picture above.

Jasmine colette patterns

Hum I've got to find another way to pose...

Sleeveless jasmine colette

Jasmine - Front

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Sleeveless jasmine back

Jasmine - Back

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Bias detail on armhole

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Collar and bust dart on the right.

The bias binding used in place of the facings.

Chevron effect at the center front.