Round summer bag… with mustache

I treated myself to his round summer bag, sewn from the Sacôtin “Candy radiating bag pattern”. A pattern I created. I already sew a few of these but I want to preserve them as “archives” for my little business. So I needed a Candy bag to wear proudly this summer.

The pattern

Candy the radiating bag pattern from Sacôtin. A round summer bag with a radiating effect on the front. And because I like fun design details, the rays on the front create 4 pockets !

This pattern is ideal to have fun and get creative with fabric choice and placement by combining 2-3 or 4 different fabrics.

I rated this pattern “intermediate”, not because of technical difficulties but because of the preciseness needed. A motivated beginner will be able to sew it.

Modifications

I added 2 pockets in the lining : a patch pocket and a zippered pocket.

I’ve also written the tutorials to show you how to create these pockets for the Candy bag pattern. Tutorials can be found on the Sacôtin website :

Add a mobile phone pocket tutorial

Add a zippered pocket tutorial

Fabrics

  • Cream cotton canvas
  • Salmon pink cotton/linen blend
  • “Terra in black” by P & B Textiles
  • “Mustache” by Alexander Henry

I really wanted to use the great mustache print by Alexander Henry in a bag and I though this pattern would be perfect for it because the rays would echo a mustache shape (kind of).

I also fell for the “Terra” collection by P & B Textiles. They are printed cottons, available in a wide range of colors, and the print give a very nice  illusion of texture to the fabric.

Bag pictures

Patron sac été rond

Candy with mustache

Moustaches in the trees

Mustaches in the trees

Poche intérieure zippée

Zippered pocket

Poche intérieure zippée

Zippered pocket

Poche plaquée pour portable

Patch pocket

What else ?

I’m slowly “recovering” from the stress of launching of my bag patterns line.  I shivered the all morning of the launch. Everything went fine but I was really nervous about showing my baby to the world.

Thank you for warmly welcoming the patterns. Your first feedbacks on sewing the bags really did help me get my stress level down :)

Ghastly Family zippered pouch

I finally took some time to sew this zippered pouch that I wanted to offer to my friend Isabelle… For Christmas … Hum no, not the next Christmas, the one that went by 5 months ago!

I took advantage of the “calm before the storm” because in two days, Wednesday 15th I’m launching my first collection of bag sewing patterns (in French and English) under the name Sacôtin.

So here Isabelle, you see, your present has finally been sewn! Now I just have to offer it to you without crying because I want to keep it for myself!

This small flat zippered and lined pouch has a simple shape, its strange charm comes undoubtedly from the fabric… Which has a strange charm. But which fabric is that, you ask? It is “Ghastly family reunion” in mold green by Alexander Henry.

Every scenes printed representing this ghastly family is great and you’ll get to see more of the Ghastly family on my blog because I intend to sew a bag, a pillow, undies… with it and all for myself.

I’m leaving you with the pictures, I’m going back to work to polish the final details for the launch of Sacôtin (I’m stressed out but I’m happy).

Pictures !

pochette zippée

Ghastly family pouch – Front

Pochette ouverte

Ghastly family pouch opened

Pochette zippée ghastly family dos

Ghastly family pouch – Back

 

Ze so easy pillows

Three pillows, very easy to make, which covers have no buttons, no zipper … But are still removable!

I made these pillows for my friend Thierry… Yes he’s a guy… So it’s really not sure he’ll wash his pillow covers someday ^ ^. But if he feels the urge to do so, it’s best if there are the least possible obstacles (buttons, zips, …) between the covers and the washing machine!

Tutorial

These are simple wrapped covers, made ​​from just one rectangle of fabric with a few straight stitch lines : simple and quick to make !

The tutorial is already on my French blog, I’ll be translating it soon.

Fabrics

All 3 fabrics are from the Salt Water by Tula Pink collection, bought at Hawthrone Threads.

I loveeee them (especially the one with the octopus) and I struggled to use them to make something for someone else….  Even if I bought the fabrics especially for Thierry.

So, why did I picked these fabrics for Thierry?… Warning : this is the “I’m-a-grown-up-with-geek-teenager-hobbies” moment !

You should know that Thierry is our GM (= Game Master = the one who leads the scenario in a role playing game) for Cthulhu (= mystery game set in the 20’s, inspired by the books of HP Lovecraft, where the big bad guy is Cthulhu : kind of a giant octopus *).

Illustrations of Cthulhu on Google Images.

So when I saw the octopus print, I immediately thought of him. Plus the print is lovely (even if you’re not a 40 years old who still plays Role Playing Games).

*Well… hum… This is a shortcut and reading this, it might seem… Hum… Well… Anyway…

Pictures

Easy pillow cases

Ze so easy pillows

Tissus coordonnés - Salt water

Coordinated fabrics – Salt water

Tissus coordonnés - Salt water

Coordinated farics – Salt water

Octo garden

Octo garden

Sea debris

Sea debris

Sea stripes - Envers du coussin : on voit le rabat par où insérer le coussin dans la housse.

Sea stripes – Wrong side of pillow : you can see the flap through which the pillow is inserted in the cover.

 

Warning do not watch the previous picture for too long ! It stings the eyes ! Hopefully it does not sting as much when you see it in person.

Meringue à la Dolce Vita – Colette Patterns

No I’m not talking about an Italian dessert… But a skirt! A skirt! Me who almost never wears one ! Well,… sometimes you have to get out of your comfort zone, to open up new horizons!

Pattern

Meringue Skirt  from “The Colette Sewing Handbook“.

I love this book, it’s one of my must-haves: clear, well-illustrated. It covers many aspects of garment sewing and 5 Colette patterns are included!

Meringue is an A line skirt and what makes it stand out is its scalloped hem.

The difficulty of this pattern, otherwise rather simple, is the scalloped hem that requires precision and patience. To sew these “scallops” I, as the instructions advise, traced the stitchlines on the fabric as guides and I sewed very slowly with a very short stitch length (1mm).

I’m pretty proud of my invisible zipper, which is invisible ! But honestly, following the book instructions it’s really a piece of cake to have a good result!

Fabric

When I saw the pattern I immediately knew it was made for my “La Strada” fabric (it is also found under the name Dolce Vita) by Alexander Henry. Or rather that my fabric was made for this pattern. This happens to you too, right? It’s so good when it’s obvious!

It’s a quilting printed cotton. I love this fabric, I used some to make a bag for a friend (Japanese-Bag – Grab Bag) and I had since been waiting for just the right pattern to use up the rest of my precious.

La Strada par le designer de tissu Alexander Henry

La Strada – Alexander Henry

Changes

I made ​​the skirt in a size 8 with no design or fit adjustment whatsoever.

I haven’t altered the pattern, but I knew immediately that the hand of my fabric wasn’t quite right for this skirt. So I underlined it.

I could have lined it the traditional way, but I felt that underlining the front and back pieces would work better in this case.

I used a synthetic black crepe for that and I am happy with the result.

Mishap

Not in sewing… In tights ! I snagged the two pairs I put on that day… The only two that I had in my drawers… That’s why you see a beautiful snag on the pictures ^ ^.

Photos

Pics of the meringue skirt worn at the bottom !

Jupe Meringue - Colette Patterns

Meringue – Colette Patterns

feston

Scalloped hem detail

Détail feston again

Scalloped hem – detail again

Détail fermeture éclair invisible.

Invisible, invisible zipper \o/

A gauche : aperçu de la doublure - A droite : parementure de l'ourlet festonné.

Left : underlining – Right : hem facing

Meringue skirt - Colette patterns

Meringue skirt – Colette patterns

 

Oui j'ai fait nawak avec les photos !

Had fun with pics

Meringue - Colette Patterns

Meringue and Jasmine – Colette Patterns

 

Jupe Meringue et blouse Jasmine - Colette Patterns

Meringue skirt and Jasmine blouse – Colette Patterns

Elle a craqué !

Everything will be fine, stay calm !

I’m glad I waited to use “La Strada” fabric, I love the combination of this fabric with the Meringue pattern !

Black Jasmine – Colette patterns

This is my second Jasmine blouse. The first sleeveless version can be seen here : Sleeveless Jasmine.

 

Pattern

The Jasmine blouse from Colette Patterns, is cut on the bias with bust darts and center front and back seams. The pattern offers variations of sleeves and collars.

I sewed version #2, the one with the shorter collar and, this time, with sleeves.

I used size 10 as usual for me with Colette patterns

Blouse Jasmine (je pense la faire sans manches)

Jasmine Blouse

Fabric

A beautiful Balenciaga fine black silk crepe, purchased from Étoffes des héros.

Crêpe fin noir, Balenciaga

Crêpe fin noir, Balenciaga

Ma-gni-fi-que ! Fluid and light, a joy to wear !

But a horror to cut… Well that was to be expected with silk crepe : sliding in every directions and trying to escape from the table at every opportunity.

I managed by cutting through a single thickness (that’s what’s instructed in the pattern anyway for front et back pieces) and spreading the fabric over my cutting mat. To cut I used my rotary cutter to move the fabric as little as possible.

Adjustments

As with my previous blouse, I raised the bust darts by 1cm (3/8″). As I had already made the changes on the paper pattern the first time, it was ready for this blouse, yay!

Like for my first Jasmine, I replaced the neckline facings with a bias binding to finish the neckline seam. I’m not a big fan of facings and this technique is a good alternative in this particular case. I used the same tutorial as for my sleeveless Jasmine : Jasmine bias bound neckline on “My Messings” blog.

Future alterations

For the next blouse…

Interface the back collar pieces because the collar is wavy every time and it’s bugging me !

Aesthetically I find the sleeves cuffs too big on version #2, arms “float” inside, so next time I should reduce the length of the cuffs and gather the lower edge of the sleeve to match OR mix the views :  the short collar from version #2 with the sleeves from version #1.

Pics

I’m really disappointed with the photos! Black AND silk I already find difficult to take good pics of and… I’m no pro. The blouse is 100 times better in real life, I swear!

I won’t show you full length pics because I reserve them for the post on the Meringue skirt I was wearing with the blouse that day. 😉

jasmine blouse colette

Jasmine blouse – Colette patterns

Détail manche

Sleeve detail

Jasmine blouse - Colette patterns

Sleeve detail – Jasmine blouse – Colette patterns

 

Jasmine Colette - Détail col

Jasmine Colette – Collar detail

Détail col - Blouse Jasmine

Bias binding instead of facings – Jasmine blouse

Hum photo prise le bras tendu...

Hum… photo taken with my arm stretched out…

Jasmine colette patterns

 

Just a little peek at the skirt !

 

 

An infinity of infinity scarves

Well, an infinity… Maybe I’m a little bit off, let’s say more like 16 scarves.

I sewed 16 infinity scarves as Christmas gifts. Infinity scarves are also called “tube scarves” and for a very good reason : they are tubes.

This accessory is super easy to make and uses fabric leftovers from other sewing projects. I like that, it makes room on the shelves for new fabrics!

I love infinity scarves, they are worn wrapped once, twice or three times around the neck. But beware, this is a scarf for adults, It’s absolutely not recommended for children due to the risk of strangulation.

Pattern

Tutorial coming soon

Fabrics

I used all the leftovers yardage of jersey, lycra, panne velvet, cotton, I could lay my hands on.

Photos

I had to make at least a dozen scarves … Luckily, at home we have an infinity scarves tree ! You don’t believe me ? I have proof… See pic below.

Echarpe tube

That’s how you wear an infinity scarf… If you’re a hanger.

écharpes infinies

Ahah ! Le infinity scarves tree !

Echarpes tubes

Tube scarves

Empaquetées à l'écolo, c'est à dire sans papier cadeau !

Going green with wrapping : no wrapping !

Zipper pouches

First let me wish you a wonderful new year, may it be filled with little and great joys for you and all your loved ones !

I was on vacation during the holidays and I took some time to sew… In particular small Christmas gifts. Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of all of them before laying them by the tree (I must admit… I sewed most of them on the 24th !). I made mostly ​​zipper pouches and infinity scarves from free patterns or tutorials.

Today I’m showing you the flat zipper pouches (well the ones I took photos of !)

They are small, flat and lined pouches with a strap. They’re closed with a zipper.

Pattern

The pattern is actually from the Craftsy website. If you don’t know it, this is a website that offers a lot of online videos classes on crafty topics (sewing, knitting, crochet, cake decorating, quilting, jewellery making, …). The video classes are taught by professionals of each domain. For example, for the sewing classes, there are some renown instructors : Kenneth D. King (I enrolled in his class and I loved it !), Sandra Betzina,…

Most classes have to be purchased but the video lesson I took to sew these pouches is free. You Just have to register for free on the website to get access to it : Bag-Making Basics: Reversible Tote & Zipper Pouch.

The instructor for this class is Kristin Link, who is the owner of the famous blog-fabric store-forum : Sew,Mama,Sew ! I found her very pleasant and her explanations perfectly clear.

I made 5 (only have pics of 3 of them unfortunately) of these pouches in one afternoon. I would watch a segment of the lesson, pause the video and put it into practice.

I have also learned a handy trick from Kristin Link : using gluestick to hold the zipper in place before sewing it. It eliminates the need to pin which can distort the whole thing. I’ve found some gluestick especially made for sewing but Kirstin uses a regular school gluestick : as long as it can be washed away with water, it’s fine.

Fabrics

I used different fabrics but all from the collection “Valentina in  Celebration” by designer Valentina Ramos for Robert Kaufman. Bought online from Hawthorne Thread.

Well I’ll admit it, I was selfish on this one because I put my favorite prints from the collection aside for me… Yes this is ugly and not very Christmassy but I could not resist. Shame on me !

 

Collection "Valentina - Celebration"

Collection “Valentina – Celebration”

For each pouches you’ll use two fabrics: one for outside and one for the lining and strap.

In one fat quarter you can cut 2 of each of the pieces needed. Which means that with 2 fat quarters you can make 2 lined pouches !

 

Changes

I slightly changed the size of the pouches to accommodate the zippers that I had on hand. The pattern calls for 9″ zippers and mine were 8″ so I just cut all the pieces 1″ shorter in length.

 

Photos

 

trousses zippées tuto

Zipper pouches

trousses plates

3 flat pouches – front

3 trousses plates- Envers

3 flat pouches – back

Trousses

zipper pouches

Rouge à lèvre pour référence taille

Lipstick of size reference

Intérieur trousse 1

Inside pouch 1

Intérieur trousse 2

Inside pouch 2

Intérieur trousse 3

Inside pouch 3

Languettes

Straps

Languettes

Straps

 

“No U Turn” skirt – Ottobre

And here is the second ruffled skirt from the Ottobre pattern “No U Turn”. The first one (in denim) can be seen here: Ruffled skirt – Ottobre.

Sorry for the delay in taking the pics but I wasn’t able to see my daughter by daylight before yesterday!

 

Pattern

 

This ruffled skirt is #36 “No U turn” from the Ottobre “Spring” 1-2012 magazine : elasticated waistband, with two panels finished by bias binding

The pattern consists simply of 3 rectangles.

Sewn in size 134 (that’s the height of the child in cm) for Petite Chérie who’s going to be 9 years old soon.

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Ottobre jupe n°36 – 1 -2012

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Jupe à volant ottobre

Jupe à volants ottobre

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Fabrics

Two coordinated fabrics from the Cool Cords collection by designer Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman. The 2 fabrics are  “Dahlia in Blue Jay” and “Dahlia in White.”

I bought the fabric from Hawthrone threads.

I used the white print for the two ruffled panels and the blue print for the waistband and the bias binding.

About the bias binding: I did not actually cut it on the bias, I cut it straight in the grainline. Indeed, the ruffled panels don’t have curves, they are rectangles, so this solution works perfectly while also saving fabric.

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Cool cords "Dahlia in blue jay" Ann Kelle

Cool cords “Dahlia in blue jay” by Ann Kelle

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[one_half_last]

Cool cords "Dahlia in white" par Ann Kelle

Cool cords “Dahlia in white” by Ann Kelle

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Pictures

Here are the pictures, the light was not ideal, but there was nothing I could do about it !

My daughter prefers this second version she finds it more cheerful. She also wore this skirt with her red fur vest yesterday and the ensemble is very cute. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the two worn together, so you’ll have to take my word for it !

Oh and by the way, the angel halo was not my idea !

No U turn - jupe Ottobre

No U turn – jupe Ottobre

Étiquette de chez Lalimaya

Cute label

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

 

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

And that’s where the nonsense begins !

Pourtant elle n'a jamais vu Pulp Fiction. (Encore heureux à son age !)

Hum… But she didn’t see Pulp Fiction !

Entrainement Karaté ?

Karate practice ?

... ou pas !

… or not !

Ah ben voilà, elle se prend pour Cupidon maintenant !

Pretending to be Cupid now !

 

 

Joyeux Noël !

 

Ruffled skirt – Ottobre design

Petite Chérie asked for a skirt. She went through my Ottobre magazines and picked this ruffled skit pattern.

A classic,  easy to sew and that little girls love.

Pattern

 

This ruffled skirt is #36 “No U turn” from the Ottobre “Spring” 1-2012 magazine : elasticated waist, with two panels finished by bias binding that are gathered to the waist band.

[one_half]

Ottobre jupe n°36 – 1 -2012

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[one_half_last]

Jupe à volant ottobre

Jupe à volants ottobre

[/one_half_last]

Sewn in size 134 (that’s the height of the child) for Petite Chérie who’s going on 9 years old.

Fabric

A patchworked and embroidered denim  purchased a few years ago in a local fabric store. I had a scrap left, that was just enough to make the skirt, yay!

I used a black satin bias binding to finish the lower edges.

Conclusion et pics

Voilà, not much more to add, this skirt is really easy, provided you don’t have a chronic aversion to gathers. My DD loves it and a second one is already done, I didn’t have the time to take pics of the second one… Wednesday probably. I prefer the 2nd version actually.

Jupe à volants en jean

Jupe à volants en jean – Ottobre n°36 – 1- 2012

jupe ottobre à volants

jupe ottobre à volants

Attends maman on la refait avec les cache-oreilles

Attends maman on la refait avec les cache-oreilles

jupe à volants dos

jupe à volants dos

jupe profil

jupe profil

Elle adore ces bottes...

Elle adore ces bottes…

Photos nawak !

 

 

 

 

Origami coat – Lalimaya

Here is, at last, my origami coat for which you have helped me pick a color block version. Thank you!

So as usual the pictures are at the end of the article after all my babbling ! 😉

 

Pattern

It’s in the title, this origami coat is a Lalimaya (small French company) pattern. It is available in a child or adult version.

It’s a lined coat with: stand up collar, inseam pockets and of course the pleats without which it could not be called the Origami Coat. Fan pleats are on the right front and sleeve heads. Regular pleats give texture to the belt band at the back. There is no shoulder pads.

drawing of the “manteau origami” from Lalimaya

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woman origami coat – Lalimaya

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Child origami coat – Lalimaya

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This is stated on Lalimaya’s website, and I agree, I would not recommend this pattern as a first coat. Construction may be a headache for a beginner as the instructions are not illustrated. But if you’ve already done one or two coats and you like this one, go ahead, this is truly a unique design !

Hum, of course there is also the language barrier… This is only available in French. You’ll find a French-English sewing dictionary on my blog to help you. I could also translate the instructions if a few need it.

[box type=”warning”] It is important to be careful when you place the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. Indeed, this coat has different pieces for the right-front and the left-front and mistakes happen quickly.

But if you pay attention to the cutting layout everything should go smoothly. But check twice that you didn’t put a piece on the wrong side. AND, following the cutting layout, when you’ll cut on a single layer for front-left and front-right pieces, you’ll have to lay your pattern on the right side of the fabric.

Seam allowance is not included ! As per the pattern instructions, you’ll have to add 1cm everywhere and 4cm for hems. [/box]


Size

There is no size chart on the pattern. So, to pick the size, I started by measuring the lining pattern pieces and compared the measurements to a coat that fits me well. By this little comparison I chose size 40 (French size).

BUT for a coat which requires more work and time than a simple blouse, I did not stop there.
To confirm that this was the right size, I made a quick muslin of the lining (right front + left front + back) in a bed sheet that was lying there (oops!).

I also drew, on the lining back, the belt band to be sure that it sat in the right spot for me (it did).

Everything was fine so I traced the size 40.

Of course when trying the muslin on, to be sure that the ease will be sufficient, try it with the clothes you will probably wear underneath and not just a bra… Although some might… Nop, that doesn’t concern me … : D

Fabrics

  • Outer fabric : a red wool and a gray wool. Well not wool actually it’s synthetic fibres.
  • Lining: a printed cotton by Melissa Crowley for Robert Kaufman: “The woman spring bouquet” ; bought at Hawthorne threads.

The iron really steamed to construct this coat, because in many places we are left with 4 layers of fabric to sew together and I didn’t pick the lightest fabric there is. I had to grade the seams and press like crazy to tame the 4 layers that are in the seam where the pleats meet the armhole and the right-front lining.

caban gris caban rouge

Origami coat fabric

After “preselecting” 4 color-block versions that I liked, it was you who decided that I’d make this version here. The vote took place a few weeks ago : Origami Coat : help needed ! Thank you again for your votes, without you I would still be deciding ! Version #2 won with a comfortable lead.

 

tough choice !

Results:

– 121 voters and 151 votes (you weren’t that many to choose two versions)
– Version #2 wins with 65 votes out of 151!
– Followed in order by versions #4, #1 and #3.

 

Changes

(or not)

Nothing much,  I only interfaced a collar piece (the inner one that attaches to the lining).

Oh and also (this is not really a change, but well …) instead of drawing a seam allowance of 1cm I drew a 1.5 cm seam allowance, simply because I am more used to sewing with this measure. If you do the same, do think to add a seam allowance ot of 4.5 cm instead of 4 cm for the hems.

I thought for a moment to make front facing pieces from the lining pattern. But after testing buttonholes I didn’t : 3 layers of outer fabric + lining was fine but with 4 layers of outer fabric the buttonhole was a mess. So basically no change in design from the original pattern.

Conclusion

J’adore ! I love it ! Well, not much more to add, this is truly a unique design.

The sewing of the pleats really deserves care because it is the focal point of this coat.  I took pictures during construction and I will make a little tutorial for this. I hope it will help those who want to sew the Origami coat.

Pictures

Thanks to my mother in law, Maryse, for taking pictures of me wearing my new coat!

 

Manteau origami lalimaya

Origami coat in the wind

Origami manteau profil

Side, left sleeve

manteau origami détail col

collar + button detail

Origami coat in the wind, again !

Label, bought at Lalimaya’s also !

Me in my coat !

Manteau origami lalimaya profil

Side !

manteau origami dos

Back

manteau origami dos lalimaya

Origami coat back

manteau origami face

Origami coat front

manteau origami doublure

Lining

I took me 4 afternoons to sew this coat (cutting not included).