Easy breezy pillowcase tutorial

Easy sewing tutorial to make a removable pillowcase without any buttons or zipper.

And all this with a single rectangle of fabric and achievable in half an hour for beginners. I have a little practice and sewed three in 30 minutes.


easy pillowcase tutorial

Coordinated fabrics – Salt water

Envers du coussin : on voit le rabat par où insérer le coussin dans la housse.

Back of pillowcase : you can see the opening through which you’ll insert your pillow.


+ More pics of the easy pillowcases



A rectangle of fabric :

Length = (length of pillow x 2) + 10 cm (=4″)
Width = height of pillow + 2 cm (=3/4″)

Seam allowance are included and is 1 cm (= 3/8″)


Tuto coussin portefeuille

Cut a rectangle.



  • For a 40 x 40 cm pillow:

Length : (40 x 2) + 10 = 90 cm

Width : 40 + 2 cm = 42 cm[/one_half]


  • For a 50 x 50 cm pillow :

Length : (50 x 2) + 10 = 110 cm

Width : 50 + 2 cm = 52 cm



With chalk, trace the fold lines on the wrong side of the fabric. This fold lines will be used in step 2.

Here is how to trace them :

L = length of pillow

  1. 1st fold line  at L – 5 cm (= L – 2″) from the edge
  2. 2nd fold line at L from 1st fold line
Tracer les repères de pliage à la craie

trace the fold lines with chalk



  • For a 40 x 40 cm pillow:

1st fold line at 35 cm from the edge

2nd fold line at 40 cm from fold line #1



  • For a 50 x 50 cm pillow :

1st fold line at 45 cm from the edge

2nd fold line at 50 cm from fold line #1



Step 1 : hem the 2 short edges

Create a narrow hem by folding 0,5 cm (=3/16″) to the wrong side and folding 0,5 cm (=3/16″) again.



Ourler les bords courts

hem the narrow edges


Step 2 : Fold

Fold the fabric, right sides together, along the two fold lines.

Fold the large panel first and then the small one.

Press the folds.

Tutoriel coussin facile

Fold along the lines


Step 3 : sew

Sew along the 2 open edges, with a 1 cm (=3/8″) seam allowance.

Tuto housse coussin facile

Sew to close the sides


Step 4 : finish the seams

Finish the 2 previous seams, with a serger or your sewing machine using a zigzag stitch.

Finir les marges

Finish the seams

Step 5 : final touches

Turn the case right side out and push out the corners (with a chopstick for ex.)

Press the pillowcase especially the upper and lower edges.


Just slide your pillow inside and your done !

Tissus coordonnés - Salt water

Coordinated fabric- Salt water


Ze so easy pillows

Three pillows, very easy to make, which covers have no buttons, no zipper … But are still removable!

I made these pillows for my friend Thierry… Yes he’s a guy… So it’s really not sure he’ll wash his pillow covers someday ^ ^. But if he feels the urge to do so, it’s best if there are the least possible obstacles (buttons, zips, …) between the covers and the washing machine!


These are simple wrapped covers, made ​​from just one rectangle of fabric with a few straight stitch lines : simple and quick to make !

The tutorial is already on my French blog, I’ll be translating it soon.


All 3 fabrics are from the Salt Water by Tula Pink collection, bought at Hawthrone Threads.

I loveeee them (especially the one with the octopus) and I struggled to use them to make something for someone else….  Even if I bought the fabrics especially for Thierry.

So, why did I picked these fabrics for Thierry?… Warning : this is the “I’m-a-grown-up-with-geek-teenager-hobbies” moment !

You should know that Thierry is our GM (= Game Master = the one who leads the scenario in a role playing game) for Cthulhu (= mystery game set in the 20’s, inspired by the books of HP Lovecraft, where the big bad guy is Cthulhu : kind of a giant octopus *).

Illustrations of Cthulhu on Google Images.

So when I saw the octopus print, I immediately thought of him. Plus the print is lovely (even if you’re not a 40 years old who still plays Role Playing Games).

*Well… hum… This is a shortcut and reading this, it might seem… Hum… Well… Anyway…


Easy pillow cases

Ze so easy pillows

Tissus coordonnés - Salt water

Coordinated fabrics – Salt water

Tissus coordonnés - Salt water

Coordinated farics – Salt water

Octo garden

Octo garden

Sea debris

Sea debris

Sea stripes - Envers du coussin : on voit le rabat par où insérer le coussin dans la housse.

Sea stripes – Wrong side of pillow : you can see the flap through which the pillow is inserted in the cover.


Warning do not watch the previous picture for too long ! It stings the eyes ! Hopefully it does not sting as much when you see it in person.

Meringue à la Dolce Vita – Colette Patterns

No I’m not talking about an Italian dessert… But a skirt! A skirt! Me who almost never wears one ! Well,… sometimes you have to get out of your comfort zone, to open up new horizons!


Meringue Skirt  from “The Colette Sewing Handbook“.

I love this book, it’s one of my must-haves: clear, well-illustrated. It covers many aspects of garment sewing and 5 Colette patterns are included!

Meringue is an A line skirt and what makes it stand out is its scalloped hem.

The difficulty of this pattern, otherwise rather simple, is the scalloped hem that requires precision and patience. To sew these “scallops” I, as the instructions advise, traced the stitchlines on the fabric as guides and I sewed very slowly with a very short stitch length (1mm).

I’m pretty proud of my invisible zipper, which is invisible ! But honestly, following the book instructions it’s really a piece of cake to have a good result!


When I saw the pattern I immediately knew it was made for my “La Strada” fabric (it is also found under the name Dolce Vita) by Alexander Henry. Or rather that my fabric was made for this pattern. This happens to you too, right? It’s so good when it’s obvious!

It’s a quilting printed cotton. I love this fabric, I used some to make a bag for a friend (Japanese-Bag – Grab Bag) and I had since been waiting for just the right pattern to use up the rest of my precious.

La Strada par le designer de tissu Alexander Henry

La Strada – Alexander Henry


I made ​​the skirt in a size 8 with no design or fit adjustment whatsoever.

I haven’t altered the pattern, but I knew immediately that the hand of my fabric wasn’t quite right for this skirt. So I underlined it.

I could have lined it the traditional way, but I felt that underlining the front and back pieces would work better in this case.

I used a synthetic black crepe for that and I am happy with the result.


Not in sewing… In tights ! I snagged the two pairs I put on that day… The only two that I had in my drawers… That’s why you see a beautiful snag on the pictures ^ ^.


Pics of the meringue skirt worn at the bottom !

Jupe Meringue - Colette Patterns

Meringue – Colette Patterns


Scalloped hem detail

Détail feston again

Scalloped hem – detail again

Détail fermeture éclair invisible.

Invisible, invisible zipper \o/

A gauche : aperçu de la doublure - A droite : parementure de l'ourlet festonné.

Left : underlining – Right : hem facing

Meringue skirt - Colette patterns

Meringue skirt – Colette patterns


Oui j'ai fait nawak avec les photos !

Had fun with pics

Meringue - Colette Patterns

Meringue and Jasmine – Colette Patterns


Jupe Meringue et blouse Jasmine - Colette Patterns

Meringue skirt and Jasmine blouse – Colette Patterns

Elle a craqué !

Everything will be fine, stay calm !

I’m glad I waited to use “La Strada” fabric, I love the combination of this fabric with the Meringue pattern !

Black Jasmine – Colette patterns

This is my second Jasmine blouse. The first sleeveless version can be seen here : Sleeveless Jasmine.



The Jasmine blouse from Colette Patterns, is cut on the bias with bust darts and center front and back seams. The pattern offers variations of sleeves and collars.

I sewed version #2, the one with the shorter collar and, this time, with sleeves.

I used size 10 as usual for me with Colette patterns

Blouse Jasmine (je pense la faire sans manches)

Jasmine Blouse


A beautiful Balenciaga fine black silk crepe, purchased from Étoffes des héros.

Crêpe fin noir, Balenciaga

Crêpe fin noir, Balenciaga

Ma-gni-fi-que ! Fluid and light, a joy to wear !

But a horror to cut… Well that was to be expected with silk crepe : sliding in every directions and trying to escape from the table at every opportunity.

I managed by cutting through a single thickness (that’s what’s instructed in the pattern anyway for front et back pieces) and spreading the fabric over my cutting mat. To cut I used my rotary cutter to move the fabric as little as possible.


As with my previous blouse, I raised the bust darts by 1cm (3/8″). As I had already made the changes on the paper pattern the first time, it was ready for this blouse, yay!

Like for my first Jasmine, I replaced the neckline facings with a bias binding to finish the neckline seam. I’m not a big fan of facings and this technique is a good alternative in this particular case. I used the same tutorial as for my sleeveless Jasmine : Jasmine bias bound neckline on “My Messings” blog.

Future alterations

For the next blouse…

Interface the back collar pieces because the collar is wavy every time and it’s bugging me !

Aesthetically I find the sleeves cuffs too big on version #2, arms “float” inside, so next time I should reduce the length of the cuffs and gather the lower edge of the sleeve to match OR mix the views :  the short collar from version #2 with the sleeves from version #1.


I’m really disappointed with the photos! Black AND silk I already find difficult to take good pics of and… I’m no pro. The blouse is 100 times better in real life, I swear!

I won’t show you full length pics because I reserve them for the post on the Meringue skirt I was wearing with the blouse that day. 😉

jasmine blouse colette

Jasmine blouse – Colette patterns

Détail manche

Sleeve detail

Jasmine blouse - Colette patterns

Sleeve detail – Jasmine blouse – Colette patterns


Jasmine Colette - Détail col

Jasmine Colette – Collar detail

Détail col - Blouse Jasmine

Bias binding instead of facings – Jasmine blouse

Hum photo prise le bras tendu...

Hum… photo taken with my arm stretched out…

Jasmine colette patterns


Just a little peek at the skirt !



Tube scarf tutorial

Here is the tutorial for the tube scarf / infinity scarf shown here: An infinity of infinity scarves

Super easy and fast to sew : I made 16 in 3 hours … Well I must say that I’ve had some training in infinity scarf sewing but I assure you, it is really fast.

Note: the tube scarf is NOT recommended for children. This is dangerous because there is a risk of strangulation.

The scarf is worn wrapped 2 or 3 times (depending on its length).

Echarpe tube

Tube scarf – Infinity scarf

We need


Jersey, lycra, panne velvet, cotton, cotton voile…

Overall a fabric that’s soft (you don’t want itchy fabric around your neck) and preferably stretchable (but it is not mandatory, I’ve made some in cotton voile). Personally I find cotton jersey very comfortable to wear around the neck.

A serger or sewing machine :

For stretch fabrics, a serger is very convenient, but if you have a simple sewing machine, it is perfectly doable, you can read this Threads article about it : A primer on sewing knits.

If you use cotton, a sewing machine is just perfect.

We cut

We will simply cut a rectangle.

Length = total width of the fabric. In France it’s usually 150 cm or 140 cm. In the US you’ll be fine with a 54″ to 66″ (or more) width.

Width = final width desired x2


Tuto écharpe tube - Coupe

Tuto écharpe tube – Coupe

I’ve made scarves of varying widths and I would say any width between 25 cm and 50 cm ( = 10″ to 20″) can do the trick. It is a personal design choice depending on if you want a rather thin scarf or a rather large one. For example, if you cut a width of:

  • 25 cm (10″) your final tube will be around 11 cm (5″) large
  • 50 cm (20″) your final tube will be around 23 cm (10″) large

We sew



wrong side




Right side


seam allowance : 1cm = 3/8″.

1- Fold your rectangle in 2 lengthwise, right sides together.

Tuto écharpe tube - étape 1

Infinity scarf tutorial – step 1

2- Stitch along the long opened edge starting and ending at 5 cm (= 2″)  from the edges. We end up with a tube.

It’s  important to leave 5cm – 2″ at each end, this will allow us to sew step #4.

Infinity scarf tutorial - step 2

Infinity scarf tutorial – step 2


3- Turn your tube right side out ! Very important if you don’t want to end up with a USO (Unidentified Sewing Object !).

Infinity scarf tutorial - step 3

Infinity scarf tutorial – step 3

4- Align the two short edges (ends of the tube) right side together and stitch.

This the most “painful” step because the edges are not flat anymore and we can’t align them from one end to the other.

Start as on the illustration by stitching from one side,  and then align the edges right sides together as you sew until you reach the other side. At the end everything will be very tight but the openings left in step 1 will allow you to finish the seam.

Tube scarf tutorial - step 4 - Start like this

Tube scarf tutorial – step 4 – Start like this

5- Slip stitch closed the small opening left in step 1, folding the seam allowance inside the opening.

Tube scarf tutorial - step 5

Tube scarf tutorial – step 5

And voilà, tube scarf done !

An infinity of infinity scarves

Well, an infinity… Maybe I’m a little bit off, let’s say more like 16 scarves.

I sewed 16 infinity scarves as Christmas gifts. Infinity scarves are also called “tube scarves” and for a very good reason : they are tubes.

This accessory is super easy to make and uses fabric leftovers from other sewing projects. I like that, it makes room on the shelves for new fabrics!

I love infinity scarves, they are worn wrapped once, twice or three times around the neck. But beware, this is a scarf for adults, It’s absolutely not recommended for children due to the risk of strangulation.


Tutorial coming soon


I used all the leftovers yardage of jersey, lycra, panne velvet, cotton, I could lay my hands on.


I had to make at least a dozen scarves … Luckily, at home we have an infinity scarves tree ! You don’t believe me ? I have proof… See pic below.

Echarpe tube

That’s how you wear an infinity scarf… If you’re a hanger.

écharpes infinies

Ahah ! Le infinity scarves tree !

Echarpes tubes

Tube scarves

Empaquetées à l'écolo, c'est à dire sans papier cadeau !

Going green with wrapping : no wrapping !

Zipper pouches

First let me wish you a wonderful new year, may it be filled with little and great joys for you and all your loved ones !

I was on vacation during the holidays and I took some time to sew… In particular small Christmas gifts. Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of all of them before laying them by the tree (I must admit… I sewed most of them on the 24th !). I made mostly ​​zipper pouches and infinity scarves from free patterns or tutorials.

Today I’m showing you the flat zipper pouches (well the ones I took photos of !)

They are small, flat and lined pouches with a strap. They’re closed with a zipper.


The pattern is actually from the Craftsy website. If you don’t know it, this is a website that offers a lot of online videos classes on crafty topics (sewing, knitting, crochet, cake decorating, quilting, jewellery making, …). The video classes are taught by professionals of each domain. For example, for the sewing classes, there are some renown instructors : Kenneth D. King (I enrolled in his class and I loved it !), Sandra Betzina,…

Most classes have to be purchased but the video lesson I took to sew these pouches is free. You Just have to register for free on the website to get access to it : Bag-Making Basics: Reversible Tote & Zipper Pouch.

The instructor for this class is Kristin Link, who is the owner of the famous blog-fabric store-forum : Sew,Mama,Sew ! I found her very pleasant and her explanations perfectly clear.

I made 5 (only have pics of 3 of them unfortunately) of these pouches in one afternoon. I would watch a segment of the lesson, pause the video and put it into practice.

I have also learned a handy trick from Kristin Link : using gluestick to hold the zipper in place before sewing it. It eliminates the need to pin which can distort the whole thing. I’ve found some gluestick especially made for sewing but Kirstin uses a regular school gluestick : as long as it can be washed away with water, it’s fine.


I used different fabrics but all from the collection “Valentina in  Celebration” by designer Valentina Ramos for Robert Kaufman. Bought online from Hawthorne Thread.

Well I’ll admit it, I was selfish on this one because I put my favorite prints from the collection aside for me… Yes this is ugly and not very Christmassy but I could not resist. Shame on me !


Collection "Valentina - Celebration"

Collection “Valentina – Celebration”

For each pouches you’ll use two fabrics: one for outside and one for the lining and strap.

In one fat quarter you can cut 2 of each of the pieces needed. Which means that with 2 fat quarters you can make 2 lined pouches !



I slightly changed the size of the pouches to accommodate the zippers that I had on hand. The pattern calls for 9″ zippers and mine were 8″ so I just cut all the pieces 1″ shorter in length.




trousses zippées tuto

Zipper pouches

trousses plates

3 flat pouches – front

3 trousses plates- Envers

3 flat pouches – back


zipper pouches

Rouge à lèvre pour référence taille

Lipstick of size reference

Intérieur trousse 1

Inside pouch 1

Intérieur trousse 2

Inside pouch 2

Intérieur trousse 3

Inside pouch 3






“No U Turn” skirt – Ottobre

And here is the second ruffled skirt from the Ottobre pattern “No U Turn”. The first one (in denim) can be seen here: Ruffled skirt – Ottobre.

Sorry for the delay in taking the pics but I wasn’t able to see my daughter by daylight before yesterday!




This ruffled skirt is #36 “No U turn” from the Ottobre “Spring” 1-2012 magazine : elasticated waistband, with two panels finished by bias binding

The pattern consists simply of 3 rectangles.

Sewn in size 134 (that’s the height of the child in cm) for Petite Chérie who’s going to be 9 years old soon.


Ottobre jupe n°36 – 1 -2012



Jupe à volant ottobre

Jupe à volants ottobre



Two coordinated fabrics from the Cool Cords collection by designer Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman. The 2 fabrics are  “Dahlia in Blue Jay” and “Dahlia in White.”

I bought the fabric from Hawthrone threads.

I used the white print for the two ruffled panels and the blue print for the waistband and the bias binding.

About the bias binding: I did not actually cut it on the bias, I cut it straight in the grainline. Indeed, the ruffled panels don’t have curves, they are rectangles, so this solution works perfectly while also saving fabric.


Cool cords "Dahlia in blue jay" Ann Kelle

Cool cords “Dahlia in blue jay” by Ann Kelle



Cool cords "Dahlia in white" par Ann Kelle

Cool cords “Dahlia in white” by Ann Kelle



Here are the pictures, the light was not ideal, but there was nothing I could do about it !

My daughter prefers this second version she finds it more cheerful. She also wore this skirt with her red fur vest yesterday and the ensemble is very cute. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the two worn together, so you’ll have to take my word for it !

Oh and by the way, the angel halo was not my idea !

No U turn - jupe Ottobre

No U turn – jupe Ottobre

Étiquette de chez Lalimaya

Cute label

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn


Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

And that’s where the nonsense begins !

Pourtant elle n'a jamais vu Pulp Fiction. (Encore heureux à son age !)

Hum… But she didn’t see Pulp Fiction !

Entrainement Karaté ?

Karate practice ?

... ou pas !

… or not !

Ah ben voilà, elle se prend pour Cupidon maintenant !

Pretending to be Cupid now !



Joyeux Noël !


Ruffled skirt – Ottobre design

Petite Chérie asked for a skirt. She went through my Ottobre magazines and picked this ruffled skit pattern.

A classic,  easy to sew and that little girls love.



This ruffled skirt is #36 “No U turn” from the Ottobre “Spring” 1-2012 magazine : elasticated waist, with two panels finished by bias binding that are gathered to the waist band.


Ottobre jupe n°36 – 1 -2012



Jupe à volant ottobre

Jupe à volants ottobre


Sewn in size 134 (that’s the height of the child) for Petite Chérie who’s going on 9 years old.


A patchworked and embroidered denim  purchased a few years ago in a local fabric store. I had a scrap left, that was just enough to make the skirt, yay!

I used a black satin bias binding to finish the lower edges.

Conclusion et pics

Voilà, not much more to add, this skirt is really easy, provided you don’t have a chronic aversion to gathers. My DD loves it and a second one is already done, I didn’t have the time to take pics of the second one… Wednesday probably. I prefer the 2nd version actually.

Jupe à volants en jean

Jupe à volants en jean – Ottobre n°36 – 1- 2012

jupe ottobre à volants

jupe ottobre à volants

Attends maman on la refait avec les cache-oreilles

Attends maman on la refait avec les cache-oreilles

jupe à volants dos

jupe à volants dos

jupe profil

jupe profil

Elle adore ces bottes...

Elle adore ces bottes…

Photos nawak !





Tutorial : Pleats on the Origami Coat

As promised, here is a step by step tutorial for making the pleats on the Lalimaya Origami Coat

These fan pleats are located on the upper sleeves (4 pleats) and on the right front of the coat (3 pleats). I made the tutorial using the upper sleeve pieces, the fan pleats are done exactly the same way for the right front.


Me in my Origami coat

On the pics, the sleeve changes color from step to step (once red once gray), don’t worry about it, it’s just because my sleeves are different colors and I took the best photo for each step. The weather was overcast, no light, I hope that the pics will still be good enough.

You’ll see, even if it seems complicated when you see the finished coat, it really is not !

And now, the tutorial !


Draw the fold lines according to the pattern on the right side of the fabric, with chalk.

Also mark the small arrows in the seam allowance, which indicate how to fold.

Tuto manche plis origami

Fold lines and arrows on the right side of the fabric – Upper sleeve piece


Fold lines and arrows on the right side of the fabric – Right front piece


On the right side of the sleeve, fold and pin pleats, wrong sides together, matching fold lines that go together (see arrows).

Right side of the sleeve – Match fold lines, according to the arrows.

Right side of the sleeve – the pleat has wrong sides together.

Right side of the sleeve – pin along the fold line – view from one side of the pleat

Right side of the sleeve – view from the other side of the pleat – The black pin marks the tip of the pleats


Choose a thread matching your fabric well as the seam is on the right side and could be seen at the tip of the folds. If your fabric is a print, select a thread color matching the background.


Stitch the pleats

Stitch along the fold line, being careful not to catch another fold, especially at the tip.

Stitch on the fold line – On the right side of the sleeve !

right side of the sleeve, one pleat stitched (on the right)

Cut threads.

Do the same for the other pleats.

Right side of the sleeve – all 4 pleats stitched

Wrong side of the upper sleeve – all 4 pleats stitched

Shape the pleats

Shape the pleats so that they are equally distributed on both sides of their stitching line.

The pleat should be evenly distributed on both sides of the stitching line.

Pleat  evenly distributed – View from the wrong side of the upper sleeve

Pin in place.

Pin the pleat – View from the right side of the upper sleeve

Pin the pleat – View from the wrong side of the upper sleeve

Press, steam, watch out for the pins

Do a press test on a scrap before ironing the sleeve itself, if necessary, use a press cloth between your fabric and the iron to protect the the fabric.

Right side  – Pleats pressed and steamed.

Wrong side  – Pleats pressed and steamed.


On the wrong side of the sleeve cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.

On the wrong side, cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.

On the right side, topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance so that they stay in place/shape during future handling of the pieces.

topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance.

And voilà ! Pleats done !

Sleeves fan pleats done !

Origami manteau profil

Side, left sleeve

As mentioned above, proceed in exactly the same way for the 3 fan pleats on the right front !