Meringue à la Dolce Vita – Colette Patterns

No I’m not talking about an Italian dessert… But a skirt! A skirt! Me who almost never wears one ! Well,… sometimes you have to get out of your comfort zone, to open up new horizons!

Pattern

Meringue Skirt  from “The Colette Sewing Handbook“.

I love this book, it’s one of my must-haves: clear, well-illustrated. It covers many aspects of garment sewing and 5 Colette patterns are included!

Meringue is an A line skirt and what makes it stand out is its scalloped hem.

The difficulty of this pattern, otherwise rather simple, is the scalloped hem that requires precision and patience. To sew these “scallops” I, as the instructions advise, traced the stitchlines on the fabric as guides and I sewed very slowly with a very short stitch length (1mm).

I’m pretty proud of my invisible zipper, which is invisible ! But honestly, following the book instructions it’s really a piece of cake to have a good result!

Fabric

When I saw the pattern I immediately knew it was made for my “La Strada” fabric (it is also found under the name Dolce Vita) by Alexander Henry. Or rather that my fabric was made for this pattern. This happens to you too, right? It’s so good when it’s obvious!

It’s a quilting printed cotton. I love this fabric, I used some to make a bag for a friend (Japanese-Bag – Grab Bag) and I had since been waiting for just the right pattern to use up the rest of my precious.

La Strada par le designer de tissu Alexander Henry

La Strada – Alexander Henry

Changes

I made ​​the skirt in a size 8 with no design or fit adjustment whatsoever.

I haven’t altered the pattern, but I knew immediately that the hand of my fabric wasn’t quite right for this skirt. So I underlined it.

I could have lined it the traditional way, but I felt that underlining the front and back pieces would work better in this case.

I used a synthetic black crepe for that and I am happy with the result.

Mishap

Not in sewing… In tights ! I snagged the two pairs I put on that day… The only two that I had in my drawers… That’s why you see a beautiful snag on the pictures ^ ^.

Photos

Pics of the meringue skirt worn at the bottom !

Jupe Meringue - Colette Patterns

Meringue – Colette Patterns

feston

Scalloped hem detail

Détail feston again

Scalloped hem – detail again

Détail fermeture éclair invisible.

Invisible, invisible zipper \o/

A gauche : aperçu de la doublure - A droite : parementure de l'ourlet festonné.

Left : underlining – Right : hem facing

Meringue skirt - Colette patterns

Meringue skirt – Colette patterns

 

Oui j'ai fait nawak avec les photos !

Had fun with pics

Meringue - Colette Patterns

Meringue and Jasmine – Colette Patterns

 

Jupe Meringue et blouse Jasmine - Colette Patterns

Meringue skirt and Jasmine blouse – Colette Patterns

Elle a craqué !

Everything will be fine, stay calm !

I’m glad I waited to use “La Strada” fabric, I love the combination of this fabric with the Meringue pattern !

Black Jasmine – Colette patterns

This is my second Jasmine blouse. The first sleeveless version can be seen here : Sleeveless Jasmine.

 

Pattern

The Jasmine blouse from Colette Patterns, is cut on the bias with bust darts and center front and back seams. The pattern offers variations of sleeves and collars.

I sewed version #2, the one with the shorter collar and, this time, with sleeves.

I used size 10 as usual for me with Colette patterns

Blouse Jasmine (je pense la faire sans manches)

Jasmine Blouse

Fabric

A beautiful Balenciaga fine black silk crepe, purchased from Étoffes des héros.

Crêpe fin noir, Balenciaga

Crêpe fin noir, Balenciaga

Ma-gni-fi-que ! Fluid and light, a joy to wear !

But a horror to cut… Well that was to be expected with silk crepe : sliding in every directions and trying to escape from the table at every opportunity.

I managed by cutting through a single thickness (that’s what’s instructed in the pattern anyway for front et back pieces) and spreading the fabric over my cutting mat. To cut I used my rotary cutter to move the fabric as little as possible.

Adjustments

As with my previous blouse, I raised the bust darts by 1cm (3/8″). As I had already made the changes on the paper pattern the first time, it was ready for this blouse, yay!

Like for my first Jasmine, I replaced the neckline facings with a bias binding to finish the neckline seam. I’m not a big fan of facings and this technique is a good alternative in this particular case. I used the same tutorial as for my sleeveless Jasmine : Jasmine bias bound neckline on “My Messings” blog.

Future alterations

For the next blouse…

Interface the back collar pieces because the collar is wavy every time and it’s bugging me !

Aesthetically I find the sleeves cuffs too big on version #2, arms “float” inside, so next time I should reduce the length of the cuffs and gather the lower edge of the sleeve to match OR mix the views :  the short collar from version #2 with the sleeves from version #1.

Pics

I’m really disappointed with the photos! Black AND silk I already find difficult to take good pics of and… I’m no pro. The blouse is 100 times better in real life, I swear!

I won’t show you full length pics because I reserve them for the post on the Meringue skirt I was wearing with the blouse that day. 😉

jasmine blouse colette

Jasmine blouse – Colette patterns

Détail manche

Sleeve detail

Jasmine blouse - Colette patterns

Sleeve detail – Jasmine blouse – Colette patterns

 

Jasmine Colette - Détail col

Jasmine Colette – Collar detail

Détail col - Blouse Jasmine

Bias binding instead of facings – Jasmine blouse

Hum photo prise le bras tendu...

Hum… photo taken with my arm stretched out…

Jasmine colette patterns

 

Just a little peek at the skirt !

 

 

Tube scarf tutorial

Here is the tutorial for the tube scarf / infinity scarf shown here: An infinity of infinity scarves

Super easy and fast to sew : I made 16 in 3 hours … Well I must say that I’ve had some training in infinity scarf sewing but I assure you, it is really fast.

Note: the tube scarf is NOT recommended for children. This is dangerous because there is a risk of strangulation.

The scarf is worn wrapped 2 or 3 times (depending on its length).

Echarpe tube

Tube scarf – Infinity scarf

We need

Fabric:

Jersey, lycra, panne velvet, cotton, cotton voile…

Overall a fabric that’s soft (you don’t want itchy fabric around your neck) and preferably stretchable (but it is not mandatory, I’ve made some in cotton voile). Personally I find cotton jersey very comfortable to wear around the neck.

A serger or sewing machine :

For stretch fabrics, a serger is very convenient, but if you have a simple sewing machine, it is perfectly doable, you can read this Threads article about it : A primer on sewing knits.

If you use cotton, a sewing machine is just perfect.

We cut

We will simply cut a rectangle.

Length = total width of the fabric. In France it’s usually 150 cm or 140 cm. In the US you’ll be fine with a 54″ to 66″ (or more) width.

Width = final width desired x2

 

Tuto écharpe tube - Coupe

Tuto écharpe tube – Coupe

I’ve made scarves of varying widths and I would say any width between 25 cm and 50 cm ( = 10″ to 20″) can do the trick. It is a personal design choice depending on if you want a rather thin scarf or a rather large one. For example, if you cut a width of:

  • 25 cm (10″) your final tube will be around 11 cm (5″) large
  • 50 cm (20″) your final tube will be around 23 cm (10″) large

We sew

[one_half]

Envers

wrong side

[/one_half]

[one_half_last]

Endroit

Right side

[/one_half_last]

seam allowance : 1cm = 3/8″.

1- Fold your rectangle in 2 lengthwise, right sides together.

Tuto écharpe tube - étape 1

Infinity scarf tutorial – step 1

2- Stitch along the long opened edge starting and ending at 5 cm (= 2″)  from the edges. We end up with a tube.

It’s  important to leave 5cm – 2″ at each end, this will allow us to sew step #4.

Infinity scarf tutorial - step 2

Infinity scarf tutorial – step 2

 

3- Turn your tube right side out ! Very important if you don’t want to end up with a USO (Unidentified Sewing Object !).

Infinity scarf tutorial - step 3

Infinity scarf tutorial – step 3

4- Align the two short edges (ends of the tube) right side together and stitch.

This the most “painful” step because the edges are not flat anymore and we can’t align them from one end to the other.

Start as on the illustration by stitching from one side,  and then align the edges right sides together as you sew until you reach the other side. At the end everything will be very tight but the openings left in step 1 will allow you to finish the seam.

Tube scarf tutorial - step 4 - Start like this

Tube scarf tutorial – step 4 – Start like this


5- Slip stitch closed the small opening left in step 1, folding the seam allowance inside the opening.

Tube scarf tutorial - step 5

Tube scarf tutorial – step 5

And voilà, tube scarf done !

An infinity of infinity scarves

Well, an infinity… Maybe I’m a little bit off, let’s say more like 16 scarves.

I sewed 16 infinity scarves as Christmas gifts. Infinity scarves are also called “tube scarves” and for a very good reason : they are tubes.

This accessory is super easy to make and uses fabric leftovers from other sewing projects. I like that, it makes room on the shelves for new fabrics!

I love infinity scarves, they are worn wrapped once, twice or three times around the neck. But beware, this is a scarf for adults, It’s absolutely not recommended for children due to the risk of strangulation.

Pattern

Tutorial coming soon

Fabrics

I used all the leftovers yardage of jersey, lycra, panne velvet, cotton, I could lay my hands on.

Photos

I had to make at least a dozen scarves … Luckily, at home we have an infinity scarves tree ! You don’t believe me ? I have proof… See pic below.

Echarpe tube

That’s how you wear an infinity scarf… If you’re a hanger.

écharpes infinies

Ahah ! Le infinity scarves tree !

Echarpes tubes

Tube scarves

Empaquetées à l'écolo, c'est à dire sans papier cadeau !

Going green with wrapping : no wrapping !

Zipper pouches

First let me wish you a wonderful new year, may it be filled with little and great joys for you and all your loved ones !

I was on vacation during the holidays and I took some time to sew… In particular small Christmas gifts. Unfortunately I didn’t take pictures of all of them before laying them by the tree (I must admit… I sewed most of them on the 24th !). I made mostly ​​zipper pouches and infinity scarves from free patterns or tutorials.

Today I’m showing you the flat zipper pouches (well the ones I took photos of !)

They are small, flat and lined pouches with a strap. They’re closed with a zipper.

Pattern

The pattern is actually from the Craftsy website. If you don’t know it, this is a website that offers a lot of online videos classes on crafty topics (sewing, knitting, crochet, cake decorating, quilting, jewellery making, …). The video classes are taught by professionals of each domain. For example, for the sewing classes, there are some renown instructors : Kenneth D. King (I enrolled in his class and I loved it !), Sandra Betzina,…

Most classes have to be purchased but the video lesson I took to sew these pouches is free. You Just have to register for free on the website to get access to it : Bag-Making Basics: Reversible Tote & Zipper Pouch.

The instructor for this class is Kristin Link, who is the owner of the famous blog-fabric store-forum : Sew,Mama,Sew ! I found her very pleasant and her explanations perfectly clear.

I made 5 (only have pics of 3 of them unfortunately) of these pouches in one afternoon. I would watch a segment of the lesson, pause the video and put it into practice.

I have also learned a handy trick from Kristin Link : using gluestick to hold the zipper in place before sewing it. It eliminates the need to pin which can distort the whole thing. I’ve found some gluestick especially made for sewing but Kirstin uses a regular school gluestick : as long as it can be washed away with water, it’s fine.

Fabrics

I used different fabrics but all from the collection “Valentina in  Celebration” by designer Valentina Ramos for Robert Kaufman. Bought online from Hawthorne Thread.

Well I’ll admit it, I was selfish on this one because I put my favorite prints from the collection aside for me… Yes this is ugly and not very Christmassy but I could not resist. Shame on me !

 

Collection "Valentina - Celebration"

Collection “Valentina – Celebration”

For each pouches you’ll use two fabrics: one for outside and one for the lining and strap.

In one fat quarter you can cut 2 of each of the pieces needed. Which means that with 2 fat quarters you can make 2 lined pouches !

 

Changes

I slightly changed the size of the pouches to accommodate the zippers that I had on hand. The pattern calls for 9″ zippers and mine were 8″ so I just cut all the pieces 1″ shorter in length.

 

Photos

 

trousses zippées tuto

Zipper pouches

trousses plates

3 flat pouches – front

3 trousses plates- Envers

3 flat pouches – back

Trousses

zipper pouches

Rouge à lèvre pour référence taille

Lipstick of size reference

Intérieur trousse 1

Inside pouch 1

Intérieur trousse 2

Inside pouch 2

Intérieur trousse 3

Inside pouch 3

Languettes

Straps

Languettes

Straps