“No U Turn” skirt – Ottobre

And here is the second ruffled skirt from the Ottobre pattern “No U Turn”. The first one (in denim) can be seen here: Ruffled skirt – Ottobre.

Sorry for the delay in taking the pics but I wasn’t able to see my daughter by daylight before yesterday!

 

Pattern

 

This ruffled skirt is #36 “No U turn” from the Ottobre “Spring” 1-2012 magazine : elasticated waistband, with two panels finished by bias binding

The pattern consists simply of 3 rectangles.

Sewn in size 134 (that’s the height of the child in cm) for Petite Chérie who’s going to be 9 years old soon.

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Ottobre jupe n°36 – 1 -2012

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Jupe à volant ottobre

Jupe à volants ottobre

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Fabrics

Two coordinated fabrics from the Cool Cords collection by designer Ann Kelle for Robert Kaufman. The 2 fabrics are  “Dahlia in Blue Jay” and “Dahlia in White.”

I bought the fabric from Hawthrone threads.

I used the white print for the two ruffled panels and the blue print for the waistband and the bias binding.

About the bias binding: I did not actually cut it on the bias, I cut it straight in the grainline. Indeed, the ruffled panels don’t have curves, they are rectangles, so this solution works perfectly while also saving fabric.

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Cool cords "Dahlia in blue jay" Ann Kelle

Cool cords “Dahlia in blue jay” by Ann Kelle

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Cool cords "Dahlia in white" par Ann Kelle

Cool cords “Dahlia in white” by Ann Kelle

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Pictures

Here are the pictures, the light was not ideal, but there was nothing I could do about it !

My daughter prefers this second version she finds it more cheerful. She also wore this skirt with her red fur vest yesterday and the ensemble is very cute. Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the two worn together, so you’ll have to take my word for it !

Oh and by the way, the angel halo was not my idea !

No U turn - jupe Ottobre

No U turn – jupe Ottobre

Étiquette de chez Lalimaya

Cute label

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

 

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

Jupe Ottobre - No U turn

Jupe Ottobre – No U turn

And that’s where the nonsense begins !

Pourtant elle n'a jamais vu Pulp Fiction. (Encore heureux à son age !)

Hum… But she didn’t see Pulp Fiction !

Entrainement Karaté ?

Karate practice ?

... ou pas !

… or not !

Ah ben voilà, elle se prend pour Cupidon maintenant !

Pretending to be Cupid now !

 

 

Joyeux Noël !

 

Ruffled skirt – Ottobre design

Petite Chérie asked for a skirt. She went through my Ottobre magazines and picked this ruffled skit pattern.

A classic,  easy to sew and that little girls love.

Pattern

 

This ruffled skirt is #36 “No U turn” from the Ottobre “Spring” 1-2012 magazine : elasticated waist, with two panels finished by bias binding that are gathered to the waist band.

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Ottobre jupe n°36 – 1 -2012

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Jupe à volant ottobre

Jupe à volants ottobre

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Sewn in size 134 (that’s the height of the child) for Petite Chérie who’s going on 9 years old.

Fabric

A patchworked and embroidered denim  purchased a few years ago in a local fabric store. I had a scrap left, that was just enough to make the skirt, yay!

I used a black satin bias binding to finish the lower edges.

Conclusion et pics

Voilà, not much more to add, this skirt is really easy, provided you don’t have a chronic aversion to gathers. My DD loves it and a second one is already done, I didn’t have the time to take pics of the second one… Wednesday probably. I prefer the 2nd version actually.

Jupe à volants en jean

Jupe à volants en jean – Ottobre n°36 – 1- 2012

jupe ottobre à volants

jupe ottobre à volants

Attends maman on la refait avec les cache-oreilles

Attends maman on la refait avec les cache-oreilles

jupe à volants dos

jupe à volants dos

jupe profil

jupe profil

Elle adore ces bottes...

Elle adore ces bottes…

Photos nawak !

 

 

 

 

Tutorial : Pleats on the Origami Coat

As promised, here is a step by step tutorial for making the pleats on the Lalimaya Origami Coat

These fan pleats are located on the upper sleeves (4 pleats) and on the right front of the coat (3 pleats). I made the tutorial using the upper sleeve pieces, the fan pleats are done exactly the same way for the right front.

 

Me in my Origami coat

On the pics, the sleeve changes color from step to step (once red once gray), don’t worry about it, it’s just because my sleeves are different colors and I took the best photo for each step. The weather was overcast, no light, I hope that the pics will still be good enough.

You’ll see, even if it seems complicated when you see the finished coat, it really is not !

And now, the tutorial !

Trace

Draw the fold lines according to the pattern on the right side of the fabric, with chalk.

Also mark the small arrows in the seam allowance, which indicate how to fold.

Tuto manche plis origami

Fold lines and arrows on the right side of the fabric – Upper sleeve piece

 

Fold lines and arrows on the right side of the fabric – Right front piece


Prepare

On the right side of the sleeve, fold and pin pleats, wrong sides together, matching fold lines that go together (see arrows).

Right side of the sleeve – Match fold lines, according to the arrows.

Right side of the sleeve – the pleat has wrong sides together.

Right side of the sleeve – pin along the fold line – view from one side of the pleat

Right side of the sleeve – view from the other side of the pleat – The black pin marks the tip of the pleats

 

Choose a thread matching your fabric well as the seam is on the right side and could be seen at the tip of the folds. If your fabric is a print, select a thread color matching the background.

 

Stitch the pleats

Stitch along the fold line, being careful not to catch another fold, especially at the tip.

Stitch on the fold line – On the right side of the sleeve !

right side of the sleeve, one pleat stitched (on the right)

Cut threads.

Do the same for the other pleats.

Right side of the sleeve – all 4 pleats stitched

Wrong side of the upper sleeve – all 4 pleats stitched

Shape the pleats

Shape the pleats so that they are equally distributed on both sides of their stitching line.

The pleat should be evenly distributed on both sides of the stitching line.

Pleat  evenly distributed – View from the wrong side of the upper sleeve

Pin in place.

Pin the pleat – View from the right side of the upper sleeve

Pin the pleat – View from the wrong side of the upper sleeve

Press, steam, watch out for the pins

Do a press test on a scrap before ironing the sleeve itself, if necessary, use a press cloth between your fabric and the iron to protect the the fabric.

Right side  – Pleats pressed and steamed.

Wrong side  – Pleats pressed and steamed.

Finishes

On the wrong side of the sleeve cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.

On the wrong side, cut the excess fabric that goes beyond the curve.

On the right side, topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance so that they stay in place/shape during future handling of the pieces.

topstitch the pleats within the seam allowance.

And voilà ! Pleats done !

Sleeves fan pleats done !

Origami manteau profil

Side, left sleeve

As mentioned above, proceed in exactly the same way for the 3 fan pleats on the right front !

Origami coat – Lalimaya

Here is, at last, my origami coat for which you have helped me pick a color block version. Thank you!

So as usual the pictures are at the end of the article after all my babbling ! 😉

 

Pattern

It’s in the title, this origami coat is a Lalimaya (small French company) pattern. It is available in a child or adult version.

It’s a lined coat with: stand up collar, inseam pockets and of course the pleats without which it could not be called the Origami Coat. Fan pleats are on the right front and sleeve heads. Regular pleats give texture to the belt band at the back. There is no shoulder pads.

drawing of the “manteau origami” from Lalimaya

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woman origami coat – Lalimaya

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Child origami coat – Lalimaya

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This is stated on Lalimaya’s website, and I agree, I would not recommend this pattern as a first coat. Construction may be a headache for a beginner as the instructions are not illustrated. But if you’ve already done one or two coats and you like this one, go ahead, this is truly a unique design !

Hum, of course there is also the language barrier… This is only available in French. You’ll find a French-English sewing dictionary on my blog to help you. I could also translate the instructions if a few need it.

[box type=”warning”] It is important to be careful when you place the pattern pieces on the fabric before cutting. Indeed, this coat has different pieces for the right-front and the left-front and mistakes happen quickly.

But if you pay attention to the cutting layout everything should go smoothly. But check twice that you didn’t put a piece on the wrong side. AND, following the cutting layout, when you’ll cut on a single layer for front-left and front-right pieces, you’ll have to lay your pattern on the right side of the fabric.

Seam allowance is not included ! As per the pattern instructions, you’ll have to add 1cm everywhere and 4cm for hems. [/box]


Size

There is no size chart on the pattern. So, to pick the size, I started by measuring the lining pattern pieces and compared the measurements to a coat that fits me well. By this little comparison I chose size 40 (French size).

BUT for a coat which requires more work and time than a simple blouse, I did not stop there.
To confirm that this was the right size, I made a quick muslin of the lining (right front + left front + back) in a bed sheet that was lying there (oops!).

I also drew, on the lining back, the belt band to be sure that it sat in the right spot for me (it did).

Everything was fine so I traced the size 40.

Of course when trying the muslin on, to be sure that the ease will be sufficient, try it with the clothes you will probably wear underneath and not just a bra… Although some might… Nop, that doesn’t concern me … : D

Fabrics

  • Outer fabric : a red wool and a gray wool. Well not wool actually it’s synthetic fibres.
  • Lining: a printed cotton by Melissa Crowley for Robert Kaufman: “The woman spring bouquet” ; bought at Hawthorne threads.

The iron really steamed to construct this coat, because in many places we are left with 4 layers of fabric to sew together and I didn’t pick the lightest fabric there is. I had to grade the seams and press like crazy to tame the 4 layers that are in the seam where the pleats meet the armhole and the right-front lining.

caban gris caban rouge

Origami coat fabric

After “preselecting” 4 color-block versions that I liked, it was you who decided that I’d make this version here. The vote took place a few weeks ago : Origami Coat : help needed ! Thank you again for your votes, without you I would still be deciding ! Version #2 won with a comfortable lead.

 

tough choice !

Results:

– 121 voters and 151 votes (you weren’t that many to choose two versions)
– Version #2 wins with 65 votes out of 151!
– Followed in order by versions #4, #1 and #3.

 

Changes

(or not)

Nothing much,  I only interfaced a collar piece (the inner one that attaches to the lining).

Oh and also (this is not really a change, but well …) instead of drawing a seam allowance of 1cm I drew a 1.5 cm seam allowance, simply because I am more used to sewing with this measure. If you do the same, do think to add a seam allowance ot of 4.5 cm instead of 4 cm for the hems.

I thought for a moment to make front facing pieces from the lining pattern. But after testing buttonholes I didn’t : 3 layers of outer fabric + lining was fine but with 4 layers of outer fabric the buttonhole was a mess. So basically no change in design from the original pattern.

Conclusion

J’adore ! I love it ! Well, not much more to add, this is truly a unique design.

The sewing of the pleats really deserves care because it is the focal point of this coat.  I took pictures during construction and I will make a little tutorial for this. I hope it will help those who want to sew the Origami coat.

Pictures

Thanks to my mother in law, Maryse, for taking pictures of me wearing my new coat!

 

Manteau origami lalimaya

Origami coat in the wind

Origami manteau profil

Side, left sleeve

manteau origami détail col

collar + button detail

Origami coat in the wind, again !

Label, bought at Lalimaya’s also !

Me in my coat !

Manteau origami lalimaya profil

Side !

manteau origami dos

Back

manteau origami dos lalimaya

Origami coat back

manteau origami face

Origami coat front

manteau origami doublure

Lining

I took me 4 afternoons to sew this coat (cutting not included).